I didn't have a chance to write yesterday, so I will sum it up briefly. There was less snow and the trail was easier to keep. We had lunch at Lake Valhalla, which was a deep sapphire blue with pieces of snow floating amongst it. Mom and Dad walked out to meet us and it made my heart leap with joy to see them coming up the trail. We had burgers and milkshakes at the 59 Diner and ran errands in Leavenworth. The dropped us back off at dusk. It was hard to say goodbye. I cry every time I get back on the trail. I wonder if it will get easier as I get further from home.
Today we entered the land of lakes. We are in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. We walked up and over Stevens Pass, underneath the chair lifts. I always think ski resorts look so desolate without snow. And there is noticeably less snow today. There has been a shift in the landscape, you can tell we have left the North Cascades. The mountains are greener and less rugged. We had lunch beside Mig Lake. It makes one feel so rich to have an abundance of food again. We climbed up Trap Pass with stunning views of teal Trap Lake below. We continued on past surprise Lake and took an alternate route up Surprise Gap. it was a bit of a climb up steep snow, but we both agree we've gotten a bit desensitized to the snow. Looking north behind us, Glacier Peak was illuminated in the fading daylight with Glacier Lake just below us. We descended to Deception Lakes, where we are camped on a little piece of land surrounded on three sides by water. This is probably my favorite campsite so far. I saw the lake and had an overwhelming urge to get in, even though it was nearly dark and not getting any warmer. It was freezing, and also exhilarating. I finally feel clean after not showering for 12 days. I got really cold afterwards, but Ben made me tea and hot tortellini that Blue Heron (Mom) brought us. We turned off our headlamps and took in the stars. There literally take your breath away. I feel very lucky. 18.5 miles today.
July 4, 2013
I am sitting at Peggy's Pond tucked between Cathedral Rock and Mount Daniel. It is so serene here, like I am hidden away in this little pocket of the mountains. The day was productive and the miles gentler. We walked 12 miles by about 230. The main obstacle of note was crossing the Mount Daniel runoff. We went across as a team with me holding onto Ben's pack. The water was thigh deep and very powerful. It was so scary feeling like you might get swept away. This evening we are planning to walk partway up Daniel to see the fireworks. It is so nice to have this afternoon to soak in the beauty. I have been meditating on the difference between simple and easy today. The trail is far from easy but I revel in the simplicity.
So our firework viewing was thwarted by high winds. We walked up and watched clouds roll over the summit like illuminated golden smoke. I leaned into the gusts and stood transfixed. Nature puts on a pretty good show herself. If things always worked out the way we planned, we wouldn't have seen a lot of the things we've seen.
July 5, 2013
The unofficial first day of Seattle summer dawned gray and cold and windy. We carefully made our way back down the climber's trail leading from Peggy's Pond back to the PCT. The weather quickly improved and we were able to stay suited down (no ice axe and microspikes) for the rest of the day. The miles went by quickly for much of the day. We descended to Deep Lake and then skirted around Waptus Lake. It was easy to get lost in my thoughts as I walked through warm green meadows filled with wildflowers. We gradually climbed back up to about 5,700 feet. We had a delicious dinner of tortellini with pesto and snap peas (thanks Karen!) before continuing on our way. The mountains were especially stunning. I look across the valley at ominous looking black summit blocks with flanks of white snow stretched out below. A layer of clouds sat just above the peaks, and with the sun just behind the clouds, it gave the appearance of a halo. The trees in the foreground had been the victim of a forest fire, casting a dark beauty over the scene. We descended again, which wrecked havoc on my feet. We are literally camped on the trail, which is good because I was about to just lie down. 25 miles today.
July 6, 2013
The first few miles today were very painful. I have huge blisters underneath the balls of my feet, which makes it feel like my skin is ripping off every step I take. We took a break at Spectacle Lakes and took care of my feet. We ran into snow near Park Lakes. Looking over at Chikamin ridge, there were steep scree slopes covered with snow in areas. We crossed some of them, but the route ahead looking treacherous. We ended up dropping into the Gold Creek Basin, which was a frustrating three hours of descending steep snow, scree, and bushwacking. We finally hooked up with a real trail and walked the last miles out to Snoqualmie Pass. It was a beautiful area of the section to miss, but definitely worth it to take the safer route. We are staying at Hyak tonight, and will spend tomorrow with family and friends. I am so excited to have a day to spend with family and friends!!!
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