July 4, 2013 (transcribed)
From the Journal: June 25, 2013
Return to the high country today! After a few miles in the woods this am we climbed up Suiattle Pass at 6000'. For some reason it was especially exhausting. The snow was very hard, which made it difficult to get a decent belay in. We reached the top of the Pass, laid down and ate a bunch of chocolate. Things started to improve from here. We walked about three miles down to camp. There were some amazing views of the surrounding peaks, which is the great part of being in the higher country. We even had some patches of blue sky between rain showers. Only 10 miles, but we worked 10 hours for them. We are having bean and rice soup, then hope to get to bed early and get an early start.
June 26, 2013
We are camped on Dolly Vista at about 6000'. The day started off low elevation with lush forests reminiscent of an Ewok village. After 5 miles we reached the banks of the Suiattle River. The path of the old PCT was still intact, so we were able to cross on the old log bridge and save ourselves three miles. After another water crossing, we started climbing again. Luckily, the snow was softer and the angle gentler. We got to see some breathtaking views of Glacier Peak and the surrounding Cascades. It started raining again as soon as we set up camp, but it has stopped for now. This would be a great setting for a beautiful sunsent. We just felt a really strange tremor, like an avalanche or an earthquake. We're camped on an island and are safe, but it was just unnerving.
Last night we woke to an owl hooting near our camp. I love living out here.
June 27, 2013
Snuggled up in the quilt after a good dinner, life is peaceful. We got a really late start this morning, it was raining and raining which made it sound like staying in the tent was a much better idea. Several marmots popped their heads out of the their dens to send us off. We climbed up the pass to see another snowy bowl to traverse. We opted to drop down and hike back up. The sun showed up for a bit and warmed our bodies and spirits. From the pass, we dropped down to the valley at Milk Creek. Again, we took the old route to shave a mile off. The bridge has been washed out but we found a safe place to cross with me walking behind Benny and holding onto his pack. The water is powerful, you can see the evidence is severed trees and displaced boulders along the banks. After the river, we climbed back to the snow. Hard, hard snow in the trees. We alternated between snow slopes and scrambling up brush and loose earth covered slopes. We are now above the tree line and camped on the snow near snow covered Mica Lake. It's a colder night than it's been in the last several. We are conserving fuel so it was tortillas with refried beans. Cold food, but we made up for it with cheese, fritos and a Ritter bar for dessert. We both have alarms set and hope to feel more motivated in the am.
P.S. The sunset was exquisite last night, there were at least 20 kinds of clouds, above and below us and the sky was lit up with blues and golds fading to pinks and dusky purples before saying goodnight.
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
The magical place called Stehekin
July 3, 2013 (transcribed)
From the Journal: June 23, 2013
Today was a wonderful day. We walked 16 miles into Stehekin, all dry trail, not a drop of snow. We walked through lush green valleys filled with wildflowers. There was lupine, paintbrush and avalanche lilies. And, butterflies everywhere. Jen would've loved it. We saw this huge, old growth Cedar that I could not conceive of wrapping my arms around. It is humbling to think of how much has happened in that tree's lifetime. Ben was able to get amazing wildlife shots of a beautiful yellow and red bird, a butterfly drinking the nectar of a lily and a very slow-moving rattlesnake. We were able to get a ride to the bakery from a very gracious couple instead of waiting two hours for the bus. We had pastries and lattes before walking the two miles into town. Stehekin is strange and beautiful, like going back in time. There are exquisite wood homes. We walked past a designated meditation site on the lakeshore with a wood sign that reads: "Be still and know that I am God." The quiet raindrops falling on the lake where the mountains meet the water brought tears to my eyes. We had a couple of beers and dinner and sat on the dock and watched the world be still. This day feels like how the trail should be, like I am connecting to it, it is seeping into me - I feel calm. Ben and I talked a lot about the day - life is good! A good quote from Ben today about why he is glad we are on the trail - "Happiness is only real when shared".
June 24, 2013
This morning we left Stehekin with another good stretch of trail in front of us, about 100 miles. We tried to go to the PO first thing in the morning, but they don't open until 10 am. A woman wearing an auspicious blue heron shirt gave us a ride to the bakery. We had egg sandwiches and lattes for breakfast and packed out all kinds of stuffed croissants, cinnamon rolls, cupcakes and danishes for the trip ahead. Life is way too luxurious the last several days. We walked the two miles back to the PO and got our first package, plus a letter from my Mom! We sorted out food, said goodbye to lovely Stehekin and took the bus back to High Bridge TH. We had a peaceful, wooded walk today with intermittent showers. We are surrounded by old growth Cedars and Douglas Firs. We walked through patches of purple trillium, I have never seen more than one at any given spot - they are usually few and far between, usually they are white. We ate ham and swiss and pesto and veggie croissants overlooking a beautiful waterfall. We have been following Agnes Creek all day and are currently camped on her banks. We saw a muddy bear print today and have been hanging our food in these lowland areas. Even though my feet ache and my pack is heavy with food for the stretch ahead, my heart and my steps feel light.
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From the Journal: June 23, 2013
Today was a wonderful day. We walked 16 miles into Stehekin, all dry trail, not a drop of snow. We walked through lush green valleys filled with wildflowers. There was lupine, paintbrush and avalanche lilies. And, butterflies everywhere. Jen would've loved it. We saw this huge, old growth Cedar that I could not conceive of wrapping my arms around. It is humbling to think of how much has happened in that tree's lifetime. Ben was able to get amazing wildlife shots of a beautiful yellow and red bird, a butterfly drinking the nectar of a lily and a very slow-moving rattlesnake. We were able to get a ride to the bakery from a very gracious couple instead of waiting two hours for the bus. We had pastries and lattes before walking the two miles into town. Stehekin is strange and beautiful, like going back in time. There are exquisite wood homes. We walked past a designated meditation site on the lakeshore with a wood sign that reads: "Be still and know that I am God." The quiet raindrops falling on the lake where the mountains meet the water brought tears to my eyes. We had a couple of beers and dinner and sat on the dock and watched the world be still. This day feels like how the trail should be, like I am connecting to it, it is seeping into me - I feel calm. Ben and I talked a lot about the day - life is good! A good quote from Ben today about why he is glad we are on the trail - "Happiness is only real when shared".
June 24, 2013
This morning we left Stehekin with another good stretch of trail in front of us, about 100 miles. We tried to go to the PO first thing in the morning, but they don't open until 10 am. A woman wearing an auspicious blue heron shirt gave us a ride to the bakery. We had egg sandwiches and lattes for breakfast and packed out all kinds of stuffed croissants, cinnamon rolls, cupcakes and danishes for the trip ahead. Life is way too luxurious the last several days. We walked the two miles back to the PO and got our first package, plus a letter from my Mom! We sorted out food, said goodbye to lovely Stehekin and took the bus back to High Bridge TH. We had a peaceful, wooded walk today with intermittent showers. We are surrounded by old growth Cedars and Douglas Firs. We walked through patches of purple trillium, I have never seen more than one at any given spot - they are usually few and far between, usually they are white. We ate ham and swiss and pesto and veggie croissants overlooking a beautiful waterfall. We have been following Agnes Creek all day and are currently camped on her banks. We saw a muddy bear print today and have been hanging our food in these lowland areas. Even though my feet ache and my pack is heavy with food for the stretch ahead, my heart and my steps feel light.
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The Journal Entry for Today
The First Leg.....Done!
July 3, 2013 (transcribed)
From the Journal: June 22, 2013
We got back on the trail this evening about 6 and hiked from Rainey Pass to Fireweed Campground about 4 miles away. It is wonderful to be on dry ground with dry clothes and eat dinner outside of the tent. Mom sent us off with homemade chili for dinner, which was delicious. Yesterday we woke up at Granite Pass and quickly found ourselves in steep snow terrain. Looking at a 60 degree traverse with minimal visibility was daunting so we decided to travel up and over the ridge to Cuttthroat Pass. It was a very exposed 4th/5th Class scramble, which was terrifying at times but also really fun. I miss climbing. We were lucky the route went through, it would have been defeating and scary to climb down the way we went up. We overshot the descent route down Cutthroat by a bit, but Ben was able to get us back on track. Soon we started descending into forest and were able to walk on trail the last few miles to Rainey Pass. We hitched a ride from a very kind Canadian couple who gave us soda, apples and cheese. We got a room in Winthrop and went out for pizza and beer. Jon flew in to deliver a replacement GPS and Jen brought out new shoes and a few other pieces of gear. It was priceless to spend the day with family. I feel very lucky to have the support system we have.
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From the Journal: June 22, 2013
We got back on the trail this evening about 6 and hiked from Rainey Pass to Fireweed Campground about 4 miles away. It is wonderful to be on dry ground with dry clothes and eat dinner outside of the tent. Mom sent us off with homemade chili for dinner, which was delicious. Yesterday we woke up at Granite Pass and quickly found ourselves in steep snow terrain. Looking at a 60 degree traverse with minimal visibility was daunting so we decided to travel up and over the ridge to Cuttthroat Pass. It was a very exposed 4th/5th Class scramble, which was terrifying at times but also really fun. I miss climbing. We were lucky the route went through, it would have been defeating and scary to climb down the way we went up. We overshot the descent route down Cutthroat by a bit, but Ben was able to get us back on track. Soon we started descending into forest and were able to walk on trail the last few miles to Rainey Pass. We hitched a ride from a very kind Canadian couple who gave us soda, apples and cheese. We got a room in Winthrop and went out for pizza and beer. Jon flew in to deliver a replacement GPS and Jen brought out new shoes and a few other pieces of gear. It was priceless to spend the day with family. I feel very lucky to have the support system we have.
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Packing up at Rainey Pass
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Ben, consulting the map for the next section
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The North Cascades! Where we regained the trail at Rainey Pass
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Setting Out from Rainey Pass
The First Leg of the Journey Continues
July 3, 2013 (transcribed)
From the Journal: June 19, 2013
Today is ending better than it started. We were exhausted this morning and ended up deciding to sleep in and make it a half day. I woke up on and off listening to rain fall on the tent, which was peacful and also made me want to stay in the tent indefinitely. When we did crawl outside, we discovered it was snowing and we were in a whiteout. There was about a mile of terrain to cover before reaching the road that parallels the trail between Slate Peak and Hart's Pass. After waiting for an hour for visibililty to improve (it didn't) we got on our way. We made it to Hart's Pass and 6 miles beyond for a total of 9 miles today. Not bad considering we didn't start hiking until 1 pm. We had two sections with steep snow traversess that are mentally and physically exhausting. Normally the trail would be nicely carved into the hillside, but, when it's covered in snow you walk very carefully over a 45-55 degree slope at times. Ben says we did "thru-mountaineering". On the bright side, my feet are magically feeling better.
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June 20, 2013
Day 6 - 18 miles. Another epic. We woke up with six inches of new snow on the tent and more coming down. We were on the move by 7:30. Right off the get go we had to descend more steep snow. We ran into two SoBo (South Bound) hikers - Kate and Lisa who started yesterday from Hart's Pass. Finally we got down to low ground (4000-5000 ') where the trail was clear of snow for 10 glorious miles. Mind you it was still pouring down rain, we are in our rain gear, soaked through and freezing any time we stop moving. It was too miserable to take breaks, we just huddled under some trees and had bites of PB and cheese. Eventually, we had to climb back up to Methow Pass. Luckily, the descent was south facing and relatively snow free except for two short crossings. We did this section with our new hiker buddies. Safety in numbers. We are now camped at Granite Pass, about 6 miles from Rainey Pass, where we will go into town and hopefully have my shoes brought out. I had some really miserable moments today where I wanted to go home, but somehow the trail has turned itself back around for me.
(I'm taking the liberty of adding this quote: "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." Lao Tzu)
From the Journal: June 19, 2013
Today is ending better than it started. We were exhausted this morning and ended up deciding to sleep in and make it a half day. I woke up on and off listening to rain fall on the tent, which was peacful and also made me want to stay in the tent indefinitely. When we did crawl outside, we discovered it was snowing and we were in a whiteout. There was about a mile of terrain to cover before reaching the road that parallels the trail between Slate Peak and Hart's Pass. After waiting for an hour for visibililty to improve (it didn't) we got on our way. We made it to Hart's Pass and 6 miles beyond for a total of 9 miles today. Not bad considering we didn't start hiking until 1 pm. We had two sections with steep snow traversess that are mentally and physically exhausting. Normally the trail would be nicely carved into the hillside, but, when it's covered in snow you walk very carefully over a 45-55 degree slope at times. Ben says we did "thru-mountaineering". On the bright side, my feet are magically feeling better.
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These are the tiny ones - didn't get a photo of the heel - ouch!
June 20, 2013
Day 6 - 18 miles. Another epic. We woke up with six inches of new snow on the tent and more coming down. We were on the move by 7:30. Right off the get go we had to descend more steep snow. We ran into two SoBo (South Bound) hikers - Kate and Lisa who started yesterday from Hart's Pass. Finally we got down to low ground (4000-5000 ') where the trail was clear of snow for 10 glorious miles. Mind you it was still pouring down rain, we are in our rain gear, soaked through and freezing any time we stop moving. It was too miserable to take breaks, we just huddled under some trees and had bites of PB and cheese. Eventually, we had to climb back up to Methow Pass. Luckily, the descent was south facing and relatively snow free except for two short crossings. We did this section with our new hiker buddies. Safety in numbers. We are now camped at Granite Pass, about 6 miles from Rainey Pass, where we will go into town and hopefully have my shoes brought out. I had some really miserable moments today where I wanted to go home, but somehow the trail has turned itself back around for me.
(I'm taking the liberty of adding this quote: "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." Lao Tzu)
Getting the Trail Down on Paper
July 3, 2013 (transcribed)
From the Journal: June 16, 2013
We are huddled in the tent in the rain. There was dry trail for the first part of the day and then we had to drop into this snow covered bowl approaching Woody Pass. It was a lot of traversing on steep snow slopes, which is mentally and physically exhausting. We stopped for dinner just before the pass and then continued on our way. The trail showed up intermittenly, but much of our travel has been on snow, which definitely slows the pace. Today we made it 15 miles. We stopped just short of another bowl, which we will navigate through tomorrow.
Highlights of the day: We crossed paths with our first fellow thru-hikers, a couple heading south from Manning Park. The wildflowers are just popping out and it is beautiful to see life arriving in these snow covered landscapes. The glacier lilies are especially beautiful.
Sometimes it's really defeating like when you're walking off trail, uphill, with thunder and pouring rain. The best and worst moments are transient.
"In the presence of eternity, mountains are as transcient as the clouds."
Note from Mom - there will not be as many photos until we set up a system for Rachel to send me the pictures she takes. But, as "luck" would have it I snapped a photo of glacier lilies which were brilliant at the trail head.
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June 17, 2013
Today was an incredible day! We woke up in a white out and had to make a steep snow descent right off the bat. Luckily, by the time we gained the next ridge line the cloud layer was rising and the sun was starting to come out. We had to descend a snow arm to reach Hopkins Lake basin below us. I took a sweet fall and crashed into a grove of trees, but I wasn't hurt AND I was wearing the GoPro at the time! We did finally get to actually walk on trail for the last 4-5 miles to the border. It was surreal to be at the Northern Terminus. I have seen it in so many pictures and videos it is weird to actually be there. According to the trail register, there is another twosome heading south that flip-flopped from Walker Pass. We missed them somehow. Actually, today is the first day that Ben is the only other person I've seen. So, we are officially heading south!
We saw a porcupine near the Canadian border. He let us take good video and camera footage, but refused to vacate the trail, so we had to move around one of the few easy parts of the trail.
We walked until 10 tonight and the sunset was unbelievable! The moon was rising just as we made camp. Today was a long day - 15.5 hours, 19 miles. I think it is definitely a job well done in these conditions. My feet are killing me. I have four blisters that Benny just bandaged for me. We shared a Flexeril and are headed to bed. The plan is 19 miles to Hart's Pass tomorrow.
June 18, 2013
"Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional."
I have been in pain all day, and I've been trying to figure out - am I suffering? The honest answer is probably - at least a little. The bottoms of both of my feet are wrinkled and blistered beyond recognition. It literally feels like my skin is being ripped off everytime I start walking. In spite of that we managed to hike (or hobble in my case) 16 miles - so we are three miles from Hart's Pass. I had to throw the towel in, I think if I had to cross one more steep snow covered traverse I would just catapault myself down the mountain.
I'm very discouraged today. We did make it past Woody Pass safely, which was a bit of a terrifying experience. 1,100 vertical feet of steep snow, definitely a "no fall" zone. It felt a hell of a lot more like climbing than hiking. Ben made a deal with God that if we got up safely it could rain all day. It rained much of the day but definitely worth it for safe passage.
Both times we were in that area we heard a raptor calling. And there was a large bird of prey circling over us. It would appear that BJ is watching over us as well. We will be in new territory tomorrow continuing south.
From the Journal: June 16, 2013
We are huddled in the tent in the rain. There was dry trail for the first part of the day and then we had to drop into this snow covered bowl approaching Woody Pass. It was a lot of traversing on steep snow slopes, which is mentally and physically exhausting. We stopped for dinner just before the pass and then continued on our way. The trail showed up intermittenly, but much of our travel has been on snow, which definitely slows the pace. Today we made it 15 miles. We stopped just short of another bowl, which we will navigate through tomorrow.
Highlights of the day: We crossed paths with our first fellow thru-hikers, a couple heading south from Manning Park. The wildflowers are just popping out and it is beautiful to see life arriving in these snow covered landscapes. The glacier lilies are especially beautiful.
Sometimes it's really defeating like when you're walking off trail, uphill, with thunder and pouring rain. The best and worst moments are transient.
"In the presence of eternity, mountains are as transcient as the clouds."
Note from Mom - there will not be as many photos until we set up a system for Rachel to send me the pictures she takes. But, as "luck" would have it I snapped a photo of glacier lilies which were brilliant at the trail head.
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June 17, 2013
Today was an incredible day! We woke up in a white out and had to make a steep snow descent right off the bat. Luckily, by the time we gained the next ridge line the cloud layer was rising and the sun was starting to come out. We had to descend a snow arm to reach Hopkins Lake basin below us. I took a sweet fall and crashed into a grove of trees, but I wasn't hurt AND I was wearing the GoPro at the time! We did finally get to actually walk on trail for the last 4-5 miles to the border. It was surreal to be at the Northern Terminus. I have seen it in so many pictures and videos it is weird to actually be there. According to the trail register, there is another twosome heading south that flip-flopped from Walker Pass. We missed them somehow. Actually, today is the first day that Ben is the only other person I've seen. So, we are officially heading south!
We saw a porcupine near the Canadian border. He let us take good video and camera footage, but refused to vacate the trail, so we had to move around one of the few easy parts of the trail.
We walked until 10 tonight and the sunset was unbelievable! The moon was rising just as we made camp. Today was a long day - 15.5 hours, 19 miles. I think it is definitely a job well done in these conditions. My feet are killing me. I have four blisters that Benny just bandaged for me. We shared a Flexeril and are headed to bed. The plan is 19 miles to Hart's Pass tomorrow.
June 18, 2013
"Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional."
I have been in pain all day, and I've been trying to figure out - am I suffering? The honest answer is probably - at least a little. The bottoms of both of my feet are wrinkled and blistered beyond recognition. It literally feels like my skin is being ripped off everytime I start walking. In spite of that we managed to hike (or hobble in my case) 16 miles - so we are three miles from Hart's Pass. I had to throw the towel in, I think if I had to cross one more steep snow covered traverse I would just catapault myself down the mountain.
I'm very discouraged today. We did make it past Woody Pass safely, which was a bit of a terrifying experience. 1,100 vertical feet of steep snow, definitely a "no fall" zone. It felt a hell of a lot more like climbing than hiking. Ben made a deal with God that if we got up safely it could rain all day. It rained much of the day but definitely worth it for safe passage.
Both times we were in that area we heard a raptor calling. And there was a large bird of prey circling over us. It would appear that BJ is watching over us as well. We will be in new territory tomorrow continuing south.
Heading Out of Hart's Pass
July 3, 2013 (typed up)
From the journal: June 15, 2013
Day one on the trail we did pretty well considering we only slept about an hour last night. We walked 7 miles, it's only about 6 pm, so we will eat a hot meal and catch up on sleep.
My first steps on the trail were very emotional. It was hard to say goodbye to Mom and all of a sudden it is just Ben and me walking out into the wilderness. I had a sense of disbelief, like this was happening to someone else. It is beautiful country, we are surrounded by the snow capped peaks of the North Cascades. It is peaceful, feeling so alone out here.
Most of the trail is snow covered, but it is warm today. The snow is soft, we have ice axes and microspikes.
We got so delirious due to sleep deprivation that we took a nap in the sun. It felt amazing just to stop when you're so tired. I'm reveling in the simplicity of it. It might take some time to get used to, that the trail is my home now.
At Mazama putting everything into the packs for drive to Hart's Pass
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Our starting point, Hart's Pass Guard Station
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From the journal: June 15, 2013
Day one on the trail we did pretty well considering we only slept about an hour last night. We walked 7 miles, it's only about 6 pm, so we will eat a hot meal and catch up on sleep.
My first steps on the trail were very emotional. It was hard to say goodbye to Mom and all of a sudden it is just Ben and me walking out into the wilderness. I had a sense of disbelief, like this was happening to someone else. It is beautiful country, we are surrounded by the snow capped peaks of the North Cascades. It is peaceful, feeling so alone out here.
Most of the trail is snow covered, but it is warm today. The snow is soft, we have ice axes and microspikes.
We got so delirious due to sleep deprivation that we took a nap in the sun. It felt amazing just to stop when you're so tired. I'm reveling in the simplicity of it. It might take some time to get used to, that the trail is my home now.
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Our starting point, Hart's Pass Guard Station
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Saying "goodbye" at the trail head to Ben's Dad, Jon
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The first steps are taken
Turning the typing over to Mom
July 3, 2013
Ok - I think I have figured out how to transcribe Rachel's journal into her blog! This is her Mom and I've been at this for over an hour. Before we all get too excited, let's see if this works. Deep breath.....
Ok - I think I have figured out how to transcribe Rachel's journal into her blog! This is her Mom and I've been at this for over an hour. Before we all get too excited, let's see if this works. Deep breath.....
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