tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16898375627428470622024-03-13T08:17:35.632-07:00Rachel and Benny Hike the PCTAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-78689024677967644742013-11-25T19:40:00.000-08:002013-11-30T11:37:21.017-08:00Sierra Majesty - Tuolumne Meadows to Kearsarge Pass<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">September 30, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">I have no words to describe the beauty of the High Sierra. We climbed up Donohue Pass at over 11,000 feet to be presented with amazing views. We walked past countless peaks and alpine lakes. There was this jagged ridgeline that looked just like a dragon's back and tail. We went over Island Pass and descended to Thousand Island Lake. It was surreal and gorgeous and I really wanted to swim but the sun had just dipped below the horizon and it was WAY too cold to be jumping in lakes at 10,000 feet. The JMT and PCT diverge for about 14 miles and we took the JMT route as it is believed to be more scenic. So far, it goes past a chain of pristine lakes. We skirted Emerald and Ruby Lakes and are camped on the banks of Garnet Lake under a sky full of stars. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Leaving Tuloumne Meadows</div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">October 3, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">After a stopover in Mammoth, we are back on trail this afternoon. On October 1st we walked 14 miles to the road and I got to take a very brief and very cold swim in Gladys Lake along the way. For some reason I love that feeling of not being able to breath and having pins and needles all over your skin that comes from jumping in near freezing water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">Shortly after we got to town, we got a call from Nat and Jane, our buddies we had hiked with in Washington who have been right behind us the last few months. It was so awesome to see them again, we went and had dinner and drinks and shared trail stories. It was a reunion long coming.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">Yesterday, we hung out with Nat and Jane for the first part of the day and neglected to do any town chores. They headed back to the trail in the afternoon and we went off to the grocery store to resupply for our longest leg – nearly 160 miles and 9 days to Lone Pine. Let me tell you, we have A LOT of food and our packs are HEAVY. We did make the executive decision to mail our bear canisters home. There are a few short stretches of trail ahead that require them, but we plan to camp elsewhere or utilize bear boxes along the trail. They are heavy and awkward and I hate them, plus I highly doubt we would have been able to get all of our food in our packs with our bear canisters.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">I found myself much more concerned and connected with the outside world during this town stay, probably because there are things going on that that affect us and our trail family. Washington has had horrible storms and already has substantial amounts of snow. There are PCT hikers that have required search and rescue and at least two hikers that are still unaccounted for as I write this. Many hikers have made the decision to take alternate, lower altitude routes or save the rest of the trail for another time. My heart goes out to all of the hikers and their families. It was been weighing heavily on my mind and I have been praying a lot that all of our fellow hikers find their way to safety and warmth.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">Our other, and certainly lesser concern is that the Federal government shutdown means that National Parks are currently closed. We have yet to pass through Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks but will be doing so in the next few days. To me, it seems ridiculous for the forest to be “closed” and unfathomable to skip around these beautiful sections of trail after all we have gone through to get here. And so we will walk on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Devils Postpile National Monument, near Reds Meadow</div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">October 4, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">This morning we were exhausted and slept until 8:30. While we were breaking down camp, we ran into Andrew, a southbound JMT hiker. We all set off, glad for a bit of company. The weather is clear but cold, with wind that continued throughout the night and into the morning. The wind died down in the afternoon and it was actually pretty warm. Due to our late start I sadly did not have time to swim, but we did walk past many enticing lakes. Maybe swimming will motivate me to get up early tomorrow. We trekked up and over Silver Pass at around 11,000 feet. It is lovely to walk through the Sierra in the autumn. The aspen trees are turning color, their delicate leaves rustling in the breeze like golden coins.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">We walked about 19 miles to camp, which was Andrew’s longest hiking day to date. He was a rock star and super fun to talk to. We camped near a northbound JMT hiker, Kevin, and all had dinner together. Ben seems to have another cold coming on, so hopefully he will feel better in the morning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Fall colors! </div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">October 5, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">I am super tired, so tonight’s entry might be brief. We woke up early this morning, and immediately started climbing up Bear Ridge. Aspens line the trail, ranging from gold to rusty orange-red. My ascent was slowed by taking a million and a half pictures of their beautiful leaves. Nat and Jane left us trail magic in the form of ice cold Dr. Peppers, which truly made our day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">We took lunch at Marie Lake, and I went for a swim. It was actually warm today, and I sat and soaked in the sun, marveling at the sapphire water surrounded by bright granite peaks. While Ben took a nap in the shade, I spread BJ’s ashes in the water and listened to The Postal Service and Placebo. It was so vast and so quiet; my only company a hawk circling above the water. I felt so at peace.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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After lunch, we went over Selden Pass and made our way along two more beautiful lakes. We walked about 22 miles before calling it a night.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Looking down on Marie Lakes</div>
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October 7, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
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To me, thru-hiking means so many different things. Not only walking through country, walking across states, walking miles, but walking through seasons, walking through weather, walking through obstacles. The trail presents both mental and physical challenges.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Yesterday and today are a like a two-sided coin. I am walking through some of the most beautiful country I have witnessed, and I am also having a very hard time. Yesterday I was an emotional wreck. I spilled some of BJ’s ashes in my hip belt pocket and just started crying. Shortly after, I was rock hopping across Evolution Creek when I stepped on a wobbly rock and fell in the water. I was so mad and so frustrated I started sobbing all over again. Over wet feet. It was truly a bit pathetic. Ben kindly did not laugh at me and instead made me lunch.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We walked on, but he started feeling increasingly sick. Ben wanted to take the rest of the day off, and I was initially frustrated, feeling the ever-present neurotic need to move forward. Once we set up camp beside a stream, I relaxed and decided rest was probably good for both of us. We had a lazy afternoon and were asleep by shortly after 7:00 pm. I tried to deny it, but last night I started feeling sick too. And this morning, I woke up feeling awful. Congested, runny nose, cough, headache, sore throat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I am nothing if not ridiculously stubborn, and so we got up and started walking. We climbed up toward Muir Pass, passing several lakes on our way. The gold brush on the shore was a striking contrast with the deep blue of the water. It was cold and windy this morning, with threatening clouds moving in. Muir Pass is our highest pass to date at nearly 12,000 feet. It also thankfully has a really cool stone shelter at the pass, in which we got some respite from the wind. It is built from irregular granite blocks and was built by the Sierra club in honor of John Muir.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The topography of the High Sierra passes is beautiful in a very desolate way. There is not much up there but crystal clear lakes and granite. We made our way down the other side and the wind died down and the sun came out. We followed the Kings River down a canyon system and it was pretty much gorgeous. Cascading water, blue skies, peaks towering above, my golden aspens dotting the hillside. We saw many deer that were largely unafraid of us, including a very stately pair of bucks. We stopped for camp before dark and covered about 21 miles. Not bad for a couple of sick hikers. Tomorrow is a big day, with two passes and about 6,000 feet of elevation gain in the first 20 miles. I hope we feel stronger in the morning.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Evolution Lake, on the way to Muir Pass</div>
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View from the top of Muir Pass</div>
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Muir Shelter</div>
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Happy hiker</div>
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Hiker trash sculptures! </div>
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October 8, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
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We did not feel particularly strong this morning. Between both of us coughing and blowing our noses all night, neither of us got much sleep. I started walking in a daze, like the trail is a dream world. I feel so exhausted and rundown. We did take a very nice break on a rock ledge overlooking Palisade Lakes. Then we really started climbing up Mather Pass. When I’m going uphill, my throat feels raw, like I am breathing shards of glass. Every once in while I would have a coughing spell, but I did manage to make the 4,000 feet up to the top of the pass. We had lunch and enjoyed 360 degrees of incredible views. A huge basin is stretched out ahead of us, and I don’t think I have the words to explain how big and untouched this land feels, or how small it makes you feel. We didn’t see another soul all day. One thing I love about walking in the Sierra is that the country is so open that you can really tell where you’ve been and where you’re headed. Today we walked up a valley, up and over a pass, across the basin and are climbing toward Pinchot Pass. We are camped at Marjorie Lake, about 1.7 miles short of the pass. Today we made it a bit over 17 miles and climbed over 5,000 feet. This is fairly impressive considering that I basically sound like I have emphysema when walking uphill. I am seriously ready to feel better tomorrow!!<o:p></o:p></div>
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View from the top of Mather Pass</div>
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Basin on the south side of Mather</div>
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High altitude yoga! </div>
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Sierra sunsets</div>
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October 9, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
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The good news – my cold does seem to be getting better.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The bad news – we are tentbound in a snowstorm at nearly 11,000 feet with two major Sierra passes yet to cross. I am trying not to freak out but it is certainly a concerning situation.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The day started out just fine, we climbed up Pinchot Pass in the first hour. There were a few snow flurries and it was very cold. It snowed lightly as we made our way down valley, but no snow accumulated. And then it stopped and I breathed a sigh of relief. Until, as we climbed up toward our next pass, it started snowing again. This time much harder, with at least six inches accumulating in less than four hours. It became more difficult to keep the trail, and treacherous to walk blindly on top of wet snow-covered granite slabs. We both slipped several times and it seemed unwise to even thing about attempting to cross the steep pass.<o:p></o:p></div>
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And so, with very cold fingers and toes, we set up camp. I don’t know what will happen. It’s only been snowing harder since we got into the tent. I hope and pray we will wake up to a sunny day and be able to walk on. Even still, the pass will be dangerous. It is a powerless feeling, being out in the weather and having no idea what the forecast brings. It is terrifying when there is no way to descend to lower altitude to bail, we will have to go up to get out.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ben has just gotten out of the tent and informs me we have at least two feet of snow outside. Another 24 hour storm system or winter descending on the Sierra? I’m scared. There is no way out except one of the two 12,000 foot passes we are stuck between. We are going to eat some fettuccine alfredo, have some tea, try to sleep and see how things look in the morning.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Weather moving in on Pinchot Pass</div>
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October 10, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
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When I woke up early this morning to pee, I was overjoyed to see a sky full of stars! Orion seemed to shine the brightest of them all (it’s my brother’s favorite constellation). My next thought was one of dread – “Oh great, now we have to try and walk out of this.” It hadn’t snowed much more as I slept, but there was still a solid two feet of snow on the ground.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ben and I talked over our options and decided we would walk toward Glen Pass and if it looked too dangerous to cross we would reassess the situation. It took a long time to break camp. It was so cold and it was awful to put on my literally frozen rain pants and jacket. We did take the time to make hot cocoa to drink to warm us back up after we broke down the tent. As soon as I put on my frozen shoes, my feet got so cold and started hurting so badly I could not sit still. I was running in place and hopping around frenetically whilst trying to dismantle an entirely frozen tent. Finally we got the tent put away and were able to start walking to warm up.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Although treacherous and slippery and cold, the snow made for a stunning landscape. I am actually glad I have had the chance to see the Sierra in dazzling white. The Rae Lakes were smooth as glass and reflecting the peaks above. There was a large group of an unidentified black waterfowl swimming and diving in the lakes that seemed to genuinely be enjoying the frigid morning. Some creatures are better built for these environments than we are, I suppose.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We saw fresh footprints and came across four guys out on a backpacking trip. They were going to hang at camp for a day and wait for the sun to consolidate the snow, but they wished us luck and thanked us in advance for route-finding.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At this point the trail was climbing very gradually and I was still slipping from time to time. I kept thinking, “What about when we start climbing the pass? And what about the way down?” From a distance we could see the unmistakable switchbacks of the PCT zigzagging up to the pass. It looked pretty ominous. We made our way up slowly, checking each step. It was very exposed. We both slipped a few times but were able to quickly recover.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At the top of the pass, the trail traversed a narrow ridgeline before descending. This part was probably the scariest for me, with steep drop-offs on either side. We took a break to gather ourselves for the way down. We took our shoes off and wrapped our numb feet in our insulating vests. I left BJ’s ashes on the top of the pass, overlooking the beautiful yet unforgiving landscape, thanking him for being our guardian angel. We made our way down cautiously, and thankfully neither of us slipped. The grade of the trail eased, and I started breathing easier.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It actually got really warm, slogging through the snow in the sun above 10,000 feet. Another few miles and we arrived at the turnoff for the Onion Valley Trail. 7.6 miles and one more pass and we are out of here! Route finding was much more challenging for a bit, and we used the GPS intermittently to make sure we were on track. Kearsarge Pass was nowhere near as steep as Glen and we climbed to the top without much trouble. Clouds did start rolling in and the wind picked up and the temperature dropped. On the other side of the pass, you can see all the way to the desert, thousands of feet below. And that is where we are headed! We called Ben’s Dad, who had planned to meet us further south tomorrow and he is able to pick up at the Onion Valley Trailhead tonight because we are bailing! I called Mom to let her know I was okay, and thankfully she had no idea there had been a storm the day before. The worst part of this experience had been imagining her worrying. She also let us know that the missing northbound hikers had made it out safely. We walked down and down and it got dark and I didn’t even want to stop and get my headlamp out – just want to get the hell off of this mountain. There is a half moon and the moonlight reflecting off the snow is actually quite bright. We got to the trailhead and I was so happy! I yelled up to Ben – “I’m standing on pavement and we didn’t die in the Sierra!” We boiled water for cocoa and Smooth Aviator (Ben’s Dad) showed up to rescue us. I ran over and nearly tackled him in the parking lot, I was so relieved.<o:p></o:p></div>
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A few hours later and I have hot food and warm bed to sleep in. It’s almost like this whole terrifying and stressful day has been nothing but a dream. I am so grateful that we are safe and sound. </div>
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Reflections in Rae Lakes</div>
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On top of Glen Pass</div>
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New Sierra snow on the north side of Glen Pass </div>
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One pass down, one to go! </div>
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Kearsarge Pinnacles</div>
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Sunset on a lake nearing the Onion Valley Trailhead</div>
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October 13, 2013<o:p></o:p></div>
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We have been in the comforts of town for a few days now, resting, contemplating, recuperating. I have made the indescribably difficult decision not to continue on with my hike. Honestly, I knew when I was walking out that I would not be back. Not this season, at least. I looked around at the mountains I have called home for the last four months and said goodbye. I feel like I’ve made my peace.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For the last several months, I’ve identified myself as Hot Mess, as a thru-hiker. When people would ask me what I was doing, I would say I’m walking from Canada to Mexico, and I would take pride in it. Now, I’m not really sure who I am or what I’m doing. I do know that I am going home, and I feel immense relief in this.<o:p></o:p></div>
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What happens when a journey of self-discovery leaves you more lost than you were in the first place? I don’t know. I do know that I don’t want to feel like I did that night in the snow, in potential danger, worrying my loved ones. It’s simply not where I want to be or what I want to do, and I don’t have to. Free will, the power of choice, is such a gift. This is what I realized as I walked out of the Sierra a few days ago.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I don’t want to over-dramatize the situation. I know that Ben and I were very prepared. We both have experience traveling in the snow and the necessary set of backcountry skills. I also know that in addition to being a hiker, I am many things to many people, and I find these relationships and my life at home to be of immense value. It’s not necessarily that I think something bad will happen if I continue on, but that I know I would regret hiking back out. If I continued on, it would be for the wrong reasons. I just feel done.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Today I went for a walk, and as soon as my legs started moving, I felt at home. An hour passed before I even thought to turn around, and I wished I didn’t have to. I have become very accustomed to walking all day in a southbound direction. I passed a small creek running parallel to the road and I thought, “That’s a good water source.” I guess my perspective has changed a bit.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I will say, with regard to my current decision, I may have learned to accept my failures with a bit more grace than I used to be able to. And maybe I have learned that things don’t always turn out like you fantasized they would, and that is okay. And maybe walking nearly 1,900 miles away from home makes you realize how much you appreciate and miss everyone and everything you had there.</div>
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Sunrise from Half Dome</div>
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On top of Half Dome</div>
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The abyss</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE6-HGpNhyphenhyphenACMOQ1HWha6CSP1DAc8PQsbLtr4P9okQL7eWPHkRxu5X9ctnkEutCz-lG9WrW1aNZOenSuPLIkkFhPCX_anGPqYb4RFMjRU4ksgoxzD5SrwSCkF58IvC1EMX4TJLUjj-OUg/s1600/IMGP6192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE6-HGpNhyphenhyphenACMOQ1HWha6CSP1DAc8PQsbLtr4P9okQL7eWPHkRxu5X9ctnkEutCz-lG9WrW1aNZOenSuPLIkkFhPCX_anGPqYb4RFMjRU4ksgoxzD5SrwSCkF58IvC1EMX4TJLUjj-OUg/s640/IMGP6192.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ben making his way down the cables</div>
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Nearing Tuolumne Meadows</div>
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Break time! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-38033142610619164512013-10-12T15:44:00.000-07:002013-10-12T15:44:35.355-07:00Yosemite! Half Dome!
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Transcribed: October 12, 2013</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">September 24, 2013<o:p></o:p></b></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>The packing and the putting on of the pack were daunting
this morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have a vendetta against
my bear canister and we are at higher elevations than we have been (so
far).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just south of Sonora Pass the
trail climbs to nearly 11,000 feet!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
is some snow on the trail, which makes for careful walking since we are on
steep terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once we climbed up, the
trail stays high on the ridgeline for miles, which made for spectacular
walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are just surrounded by
snow-covered peaks as far as the eyes can see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is how I imagine the Alps to look.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The winds raged and the clouds grew thick and hovered over us, but,
miraculously, all we got was a few snowflakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The clouds stuck around and made for some awesome photographs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sadly, we did eventually have to descend off
the ridge and continue our walking in relatively lower country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This evening we walked past the 1,000 mile
marker, we have less than a thousand miles to Mexico!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This feels pretty darn exciting!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the day went on, I am getting used to the
heavier pack and the altitude.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have
walked over 21 miles today – which is good given the new conditions our bodies
are adjusting to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is cloudy and windy
again tonight, so we shall see what the trail delivers tomorrow.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXhbOpFCaKfUW-2d6RWxuWfcq7jf3dwI6thri-RA4mAkyaeKjWoDStFVBUsD4WU5ET6NE_tYVbWHTgvzB1hsJUMngrTEeUpuRqAWjeVaIMe2MyQ8n9hhPrbfNZdXRMbc-PtyYd_yUkl0/s1600/IMG_0850.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXhbOpFCaKfUW-2d6RWxuWfcq7jf3dwI6thri-RA4mAkyaeKjWoDStFVBUsD4WU5ET6NE_tYVbWHTgvzB1hsJUMngrTEeUpuRqAWjeVaIMe2MyQ8n9hhPrbfNZdXRMbc-PtyYd_yUkl0/s320/IMG_0850.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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John Muir Country</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">September 25, 2013<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>The morning started off sunny, cold and crisp, the kind of
day that makes September my favorite month.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The trail followed a creek for a good many miles, which was very
peaceful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben has been fighting a cold
and started feeling progressively worse as the day went on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It got colder and started snowing lightly and
it got to the point where he was just trudging along.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stopped after 14 miles and got some soup
and tea in him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hopefully he will feel
better after a good night of rest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
feels like summer is taking her curtain call, I’d rather we were past the high
country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s stressful, but we are
doing all that we can.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We don’t have
much, if any, control over weather, exhaustion or illness.<o:p></o:p></div>
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</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">September 26, 2013<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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</span>Today went very slowly as Ben is still quite sick and
working hard to stay moving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a
quiet day, walking in a comfortable silence, enjoying the vast landscapes that
surround me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At lunch, we met Special
Ops, another south-bound thru-hiker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
haven’t seen another Sobo (South Bounder) since Central Oregon, so it was very
exciting to swap trail stories.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
forged on in the afternoon as snow began to fall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was so quiet, watching snow cover the
granite peaks. As darkness fell, we caught up with our new friend who had a
fire blazing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben and I were very low on
fuel and had planned on a cold dinner, but soon we were having cocoa and tea
and dehydrated chicken enchiladas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Special Ops is one hell of a trail angel!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqF9hw9vZ83IZYwjlMjrqz9EFeEswHoa2JhO8MHeqn1GthJA6wZrXYipH74U4YEsHFQ-0_bs-JjcUm7GazH_rPMEQ3VucGak-eL8ExIJz1tzWKxYazhLUckB_k8Glew2DLrvZhaRKcrmk/s1600/IMG_0855.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqF9hw9vZ83IZYwjlMjrqz9EFeEswHoa2JhO8MHeqn1GthJA6wZrXYipH74U4YEsHFQ-0_bs-JjcUm7GazH_rPMEQ3VucGak-eL8ExIJz1tzWKxYazhLUckB_k8Glew2DLrvZhaRKcrmk/s320/IMG_0855.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p></o:p> </div>
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</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">September 27, 2013<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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</span>This morning, I woke up to an ice-crusted tent from our condensation
freezing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was 22 degrees (inside the
tent).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Motivated to get to Tuolumne
Meadows, we were up and walking before sunrise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was freezing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We started walking
in our down jackets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually it did
warm up and we had some very beautiful walking today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Expansive granite domes tower above the trail
and we walk alongside water rushing over granite slabs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We made it down to Tuolumne Meadows by 6 pm
(about 26 miles, proving we <u>can</u> still do decent miles at altitude with
bear canisters).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All services at Tuolumne
are closed, so we had planned to walk down Yosemite Valley in the morning until
I realized that tomorrow is Saturday and the Post Office would only be open for
a few hours and so we began the task of hitch hiking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sun was setting and we were about to give
up hope when a seriously awesome couple squished all three of us in the back of
their car, fed us fresh fruit, cranked up the heat and delivered us to the
heart of the valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got to watch the
sunset as we made our way down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once
there we went to the super market, had soda and sandwiches and then realized we
had nowhere to sleep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were tired, it
was dark, and all the campgrounds were full.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And so we stealth camped in the bushes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Usually I feel like a back packer, but tonight I feel like a vagrant.</div>
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The Evil Bear Canisters!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Ac1Ojd1-yGLSELcWKSvjz20TZF54fcCt4QdK_pcikWf0xrHtLUxcqxRI3HwfamzScc-ny9NHgnYei_NAsfwkDFFEvmhgumWMvnWhgNpASlCIKWPgEB3gJdGke5E17o_QAnvptDA5Mew/s1600/photo+(7).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Ac1Ojd1-yGLSELcWKSvjz20TZF54fcCt4QdK_pcikWf0xrHtLUxcqxRI3HwfamzScc-ny9NHgnYei_NAsfwkDFFEvmhgumWMvnWhgNpASlCIKWPgEB3gJdGke5E17o_QAnvptDA5Mew/s320/photo+(7).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p>Picking up packages and mail at Yosemite Village</o:p></div>
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</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">September 28, 2013<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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</span>Since we did not get arrested last night we went and got
breakfast this morning, complete with a coconut soy latte.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I perused the Ansel Adams gallery while we
waited for the Post Office to open.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
wasn’t sure if our packages would be there, but they were, with so many treats
from Mom, Karen and our Zydeco family, and a letter from my Grandpa.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got really emotional thinking of all of our
loved ones and the support we have.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
feel very lucky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After going to the
store and grabbing lunch, we headed back to the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We parted ways with Special Ops who is
hitching back to the PCT.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben and I are
walking back up to the PCT on the John Muir Trail (JMT), with hopes of going up
Half Dome on the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are hordes
of people, but the crowds thinned as we got farther from the trailhead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guy that we hitched with last night
referred to Yosemite as “Nature Disneyland” which is an exceptionally accurate
description.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I admired the majestic
granite domes, our first view of Half Dome and beautiful Nevada Falls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are now two miles from the top of Half Dome,
which we will try to watch the sunrise from.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We weren’t able to get a permit, so we are hoping for either a kind
ranger or hikers with extra space on their permits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Either way, it is mind blowing to be in this
spectacular place.<o:p></o:p></div>
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</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">September 29, 2013<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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</span>It has been an exhilarating and exhausting day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were up and walking toward Half Dome under
a crescent moon and brilliant stars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
reached the base of the cables that run up the last 500 feet of rock just as
light was entering the sky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As soon as I
started up the steep cables with my heavy pack, I knew it was a mistake to bring
my pack up with me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was pulling me
backwards and I felt like I was just heaving my way up these cables while
making sure my feet didn’t slip on the granite, which was slick with my trail
runners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did make it up without
incident, just in time for sunrise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was amazing to watch light fill the valley and stare down the climber’s side of
Half Dome, a 2000 foot vertical cliff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Next time I’m up there, I hope it will be by this route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Overlooking this awe-inspiring valley I let
BJ’s ashes sail into the abyss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And then
we headed down…..coming up was scary but starting down the cables was truly
terrifying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And I love rock
climbing!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s not the exposure but the
fact that if you fell, you would have very little control or ability to stop
yourself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I normally can control my climbing
mind space, but I got really scared and it seemed like a bad idea to go down
with my pack on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben encouraged me to
leave my pack at the top, and I had minimal problems descending without
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At least I was able to maintain my
composure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben was awesome and went up
and down to retrieve my pack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was the
only person on the cables, and I was able to get some great footage of him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We headed safely back to the trail to share a
celebratory Dr. Pepper and cookies from Mom. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And then we began our ascent of Yosemite
Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a beautiful day and we
were walking through Heaven’s country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I’m not sure I have seen such vast and striking mountains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Granite domes and spires fill the valley,
calling out to be climbed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wish it was
summer so I could stay and play.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
clouds were awesome today; stacks of lenticular clouds filled the skyline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took our time, taking lots of pictures and
time to soak in the views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of the day, I
think Cathedral Peak was my favorite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From afar, it looks like a steep needle, but as you draw closer, it is
actually comprised of giant Lego blocks of rock stacked atop each other.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got back to the road leading back to
Tuolumne Meadows in time for a vibrant sunset in which all of the lenticular
clouds turned orange and pink like giant pastel flying saucers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will hopefully get good rest tonight and
jump back on our trail in the morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Yosemite made for an unforgettable side trip, and I wouldn’t have missed
it for the world.<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span></div>
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Half Dome</div>
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The final, cable ascent of Half Dome</div>
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Looking down from the top of Half Dome</div>
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Paintings in the sky</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-42881183716827657982013-10-11T23:27:00.000-07:002013-10-12T15:46:10.905-07:00South Lake Tahoe to Sonora PassTranscribed: October 11, 2013<br />
<strong>From the Journal: September 19, 2013</strong><br />
<strong></strong><br />
Yesterday we took a full day off, and it was amazing. I slept in without guilt, had so many cups of coffee, and ran a few errands. South Lake Tahoe is more challenging to negotiate than most of the towns on the PCT, but they have a decent bus system so it worked out. Mom sent <u>brand new</u> shoes to me, which felt like Christmas and my birthday combined. My old pair had about as many holes as I have toes and were starting to feel too small. I got 500 miles out of them, which I was happy with. Ben and I walked down to the lake to watch the sunset. I got to do some sun salutations and watch the water ripple with golden rays. Then we had a lovely Italian dinner and headed back to the hotel. This morning was leisurely as well, and I feel like we almost didn't leave town. After a very late bus, me nearly leaving my sleeping pad under the bed in the hotel and eating way too much at a Chinese buffet, going back to bed seemed like the very best idea. Instead, we were good thru-hikers and headed out to the highway to hitch-hike. We shortly got a ride with a kind local woman and her yellow lab. Per usual, I was grumpy walking out of town with a too-full belly and too-heavy pack. A couple hours into the woods now, I am content and feel right back at home.<br />
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Rachel finding peace at Lake Tahoe at sunset</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 20, 2013</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It has been an exceptionally hard day, and I’m not exactly
sure why.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We woke up at 6 completely
exhausted and ended up sleeping in for several more hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We didn’t start hiking until 10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I know we need to make forward progress but
my body feels like it is pushing against a wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have done other hard things – marathons,
climbs, long distance bike rides, but this is different.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Month after month of daily physical challenge
is different.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked 17 miles today
and are camped above 9,000 feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
very windy and snow is in the forecast for tonight and tomorrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can feel the changing seasons in the
air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This afternoon we did have a
wonderful surprise at the Carson Pass Visitor Center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The volunteers there were big fans of the PCT;
they gave us fresh water and snacks as we sat by the warm fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On days like this, it is kind people that
lift your spirits immeasurably.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 21, 2013</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Well, today is the last day of summer and we are huddled in
the tent at 5 pm, watching snow fall. The wind kept us up much of last night, and
although our tent pole got bent, the tent stood through the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Needless to say, finding the energy to start
walking this morning was a challenge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At
first we just had wind to contend with, but the clouds looked ominous and soon
we had rain, then grapple and then snow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The winds were gusting at 30+ mph, throwing consolidated snow in your
face and threatening to push you off the ridges we have been walking along.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At first this was pretty discouraging, but as
the day went on I felt more purposeful and determined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The problem is, we get most of our cold
weather gear in two days, at North Kennedy Meadows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have pretty limited clothes to walk in and
still have dry clothes to sleep in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So
we were walking in wind pants and a rain shell over shorts and t-shirt with
light gloves and light socks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About 4 pm
fingers and toes started getting cold so we called it a day at just over 19
miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From what we last heard, this
weather system is supposed to be short-lived, so with some luck, hopefully the
weather will improve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am certainly
intimidated, with hundreds of miles of high country ahead and September rapidly
drawing to a close.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a different
kind of beauty to days like these.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
pure white of a fresh dusting of snow on the mountains or a red-tailed hawk
effortlessly riding the gusts of wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The clouds swirling around rocky spires up above conjures up images of a
dark and mysterious castle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hopefully we
can stay warm and get some rest, and be able to safely carry on in the
morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 22, 2013 </span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I woke up to a perfect morning for first snows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sky was a bright blue and the whole world
sparkled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the clouds gone, I have
an unobstructed view of the rocky cliffs all around us, and they are covered
with just a thin layer of snow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Brand
new snow on the ground allows us to see who we are sharing the trail with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I spotted deer, rabbit, coyote, cougar, and
bear tracks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It looks like there was a
mama bear with two cubs frolicking around and having a great time this
morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is amazing how a fresh dusting
of snow gives the mountains a whole different appearance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are absolutely breathtaking today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were traveling up high with gorgeous views
for most of the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the sun set
the sky was ablaze with orange clouds, giving it the appearance of being on
fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shortly after sunset, we heard a
pack of coyotes singing together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
hauntingly beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are camping
under the stars, watching the moonrise and eating split pea soup.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is cold tonight, but I love cowboy camping
whenever we can, there is no better way to fall asleep than star gazing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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First Snow of Fall</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 23, 2013</span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Perhaps it is not the best idea to cowboy camp when there is
snow on the ground; it was 26 degrees when we woke up this morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, my shoes were frozen solid, and I had
to force them onto my feet since I had neglected to loosen them the night
before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got walking in a hurry with
almost all of our clothes on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trail
climbed above 10,000 feet for the first time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This served to warm us up as well as being beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am so glad for the snow we got; the
contrast of the white on the rocky peaks is quite striking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just as we were walking to the trailhead, a
car was leaving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I frantically waved
them down and a very nice couple gave us a ride to the Northern Kennedy Meadows
resort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was so lucky, as this hitch
is supposed to be one of the more difficult on the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We spent several blissful hours eating hot
food and ice cream, calling home and organizing our gear for the next leg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben and I were so excited to get our cold
weather gear – warmer long underwear and socks, down booties to sleep in, and
rain pants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were not so excited to
receive our bear canisters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are
required for about the next 300 miles of the trail, weigh in at over 2.5 pounds
and are made of a rigid and space-consuming plastic that proved quite difficult
to pack around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked back to the
highway with aggravatingly heavy packs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was nearing dusk and the road had almost no traffic, but we lucked
out again and got a ride back to Sonora Pass just before dark.</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-86729715774278276742013-09-28T10:15:00.000-07:002013-10-06T19:57:16.051-07:00Carson PassTranscribed: September 28, 2013<br />
<br />
I never cease to be amazed at how the internet has opened up communication! Shortly after Rachel and Ben left South Lake Tahoe I received an email from Denny Price! September 20 Rachel and Ben arrived at Carson Pass (elevation 8573 feet) and spent some time resting and visiting. It was wonderful that Denny took the time to take a couple of pictures and send them my way - although I do try to "wonder" (not worry) it was a pleasant surprise and an update of their progress on the trail! <br />
<br />
"Hello from The Carson Pass Information Station on Highway 88 a day's hike south
of Lake Tahoe. This afternoon Rachel and Ben rested at our station before
continuing south a few more miles. They were a fun, engaging and interesting
couple." <br />
<br />
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What a comfortable place to take a rest - Ben really liked Moke!</div>
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Thank you to the friendly staff at Carson Pass Information Center for providing fresh food, a warm environment and hospitality to Rachel and Ben!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-61275242409752663932013-09-21T19:55:00.000-07:002013-10-06T19:57:56.720-07:00Sierra City to South Lake TahoeTranscribed: September 20, 2013<br />
<strong>From the Journal: </strong><st1:date day="13" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
13, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p><br />
This morning was awesome because we got to sleep in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had to; the store doesn’t open until <st1:time hour="9" minute="30" w:st="on">9:30</st1:time> and the Post Office at <st1:time hour="10" minute="0" w:st="on">10:00</st1:time>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did our resupply, got our packages and had
amazing breakfast burritos and real coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We rolled out of town about 12:30.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Life seemed very hard and walking all day seemed very daunting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think we were both pretty low on energy
today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe it was the Jager
shots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We almost set up camp after five
miles, because it seemed like it might rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We did carry on, met some awesome section hikers from southern <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">California</st1:place></st1:state> and it did
not rain a substantial amount.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We set up
camp at about 7, hoping to get a good night’s sleep and reset ourselves to be
up and hiking early.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sky continues
to be a little ominous, forcing us to set up our tent and ending a couple week
long streak of cowboy camping.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
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<st1:date day="14" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
14, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
We were mostly successful at getting an early start this
morning (walking by <st1:time hour="18" minute="20" w:st="on">6:20</st1:time>).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was sunny this morning and hot very early in
the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We climbed above 8,000 feet for
the first time on the official trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
had incredible 360 degree views, the clouds were gorgeous and you can tell we
are nearing the Sierra by the rocky features that surround us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ran into a three or four generation family
section hiking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the day wore on the
clouds that were making for such lovely pictures continued to build and then
rained and hailed all over us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was
a little miserable but mercifully short-lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I suspect there will be more inclement weather in our future.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a chill in the air at night, and you
can feel summer dwindling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All day long
we rolled up and down between 7,000 and 8,500 feet, which was pretty
spectacular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We made 24.5 miles by
shortly after <st1:time hour="18" minute="0" w:st="on">6 pm</st1:time>, ending
at the Peter Grubb Hut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The hut is
maintained by the Sierra Club and used in the winter for ski and snowshoeing
groups.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We checked it out but opted to
camp outside where the light is bright and the stars are above us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since the sky cleared, we are back to cowboy
camping!<o:p></o:p><br />
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<o:p> </o:p><strong>September 15, 2013<o:p></o:p></strong></div>
Today marks three months on trail and a year that Ben and I
first hiked on the PCT together, a 24 mile stretch north of Snoqualmie
Pass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a special day and also a
very hard day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hiked to Donner Pass
and then somehow missed a PCT trail junction and ended up on another trail near
Donner Peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a few lost hour and a
few extra miles, we found our way back to the PCT.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A very helpful pair of women gave us
directions and yummy freeze-dried vegetables.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Lunch also included a celebratory Dr. Pepper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once we started walking again, the trail got
really beautiful, which slowly ebbed away the frustration of being lost and
wasting a bunch of time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trail
follows a narrow ridgeline and it was pretty windy, but more in an invigorating
than in a blow you off the ridge kind of way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I was listening to Mumford and Sons, which is excellent ridge top music,
although the lyrics are truly heart wrenching.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We walked right through Squaw Valley Ski Resort right at sunset, which
brought back fond memories of skiing there with Dad and BJ as a kid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And we saw a coyote only 20 feet away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We met our goal of walking 25 PCT miles (and
maybe 28 for the day) although it took until 9:45 pm and was pretty painful as
the evening wore on. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I certainly have
some new blisters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One reason we are
both frustrated is that we have less than an abundance of food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With more climbing, colder nights and higher
altitudes, Ben and I are both hungrier.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
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<strong>September 16, 2103<o:p></o:p></strong></div>
Due to our exhaustion, we slept in this morning and watched
light fill the sky from the comfort of the quilt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were walking by 8, bound and determined to
do a 30 mile day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the morning we
walked along a narrow ridgeline with stunning views of Oceanic Lake Tahoe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This section of the PCT overlaps with the
Tahoe Rim Trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the afternoon we
walked into the Desolation Wilderness, a section I have been super excited
about!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Darkness fell as we moved out of
forest into open country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a
little disappointing to walk past all of these lakes along the trail and not
see them, but the reality is that we are getting short on hours of daylight to
do the miles we need to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The nearly
full moon illuminated Fontanellis Lake as we walked by, the moonlight catching
the waves on the water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stars were
brilliant and you could make out the outline of the granite cliffs rising above
the lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We climbed out of the lake
basin up to Dicks Pass, as it got windier and windier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We topped out at about 9,400 feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was 10:30, we’d walked over 30 miles, and
I was exhausted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We set up camp in the
most sheltered area we could find and will try to sleep as best we can in this
windstorm.<br />
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<strong>September 17, 2013</strong></div>
With the wind still howling this morning, we woke up early
as town is beckoning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All in all, the
trail has been good to us lately, and I am feeling like I am going to need to
get some thicker skin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can only imagine
that the weather will get harsher as we walk on.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
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Once I begrudgingly left the tent, I was blown away by the
beauty of the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clouds were flying
over the pass, turning from lemon-yellow to pale orange to a dusty pink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seeing the sun’s first rays illuminate the
granite peaks surrounding us, I can understand why John Muir calls the Sierra
the Range of Light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hobbled my way down
the rocky trail with sore feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
walked past all of these granite peaks and beautiful alpine lakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is breathtaking country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They don’t make mountains like this at
home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the lakes we walked past
was called Lake Aloha, and it was a brilliant blue interspersed with rocky
islands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had to go swimming even
though it was still very windy and not necessarily what would be considered
warm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn’t stay in long, and it was
certainly invigorating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I feel like I
need to soak up the dwindling summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
made our way down to Echo Lake and got a ride to South Lake Tahoe from a couple
who was backpacking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once in town a
whole bunch of wonderful things happened, like flip flops, baby back ribs, ice
cream, eggplant parmesan, red wind and sleeping in a bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will take another much needed rest day
tomorrow.</div>
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New Shoes......Old Shoes</div>
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New Shoes or flip flops?! (I can't help but notice how LONG Rachel's hair is - love it!!)</div>
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South Lake Tahoe</div>
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Getting Sun and Rest in South Lake Tahoe</div>
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<o:p></o:p> </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-79158992030509300942013-09-21T19:41:00.002-07:002013-09-21T19:42:13.795-07:00Chester to Sierra City<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<st1:date day="7" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013">Transcribed: September 21, 2013</st1:date></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<st1:date day="7" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>From the Journal: September
7, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
We got all of our things together and had an awesome
breakfast in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chester</st1:place></st1:city>
this morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The people sitting next to
us anonymously took care of our meal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
am continuously blown away by the kindness and generosity of the people I have
met along this journey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A very nice man
named Shaun took us back to the trail after a brief hitch, and we were on our
way.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
After meeting up to go across the Hat Creek Rim, Ben and I
have decided to walk this journey together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I am very happy, our time apart made me miss him and our ability to work
as a team.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This opportunity seems too
long in the making to not take advantage of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We reached the signpost for the PCT about nine miles into our day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is surreal and exciting to be more than
half way done as I write this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is
much to reflect back on and more to look forward to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think the best thing is how much connected
and present I feel in this lifestyle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
took awhile and I finally feel like I have settled into the trail or the trail
has settled into me.</div>
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<st1:date day="8" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
8, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
As a reward for doing 28.5 miles by <st1:time hour="19" minute="0" w:st="on">7 pm</st1:time>, Ben and I are sitting in Belden, drinking
a cold beer and waiting for our burgers to arrive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite snoozing this morning and getting the
day started an hour later than planned we have been very productive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We even made it through Myrtle Flats alive,
the area where there has been a cougar stalking solo female hikers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My body feels stronger than it has after our
other long days, which is encouraging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
hope the trend continues tomorrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Usually after walking close to 30 miles, I am collapsing in a heap on my
sleeping pad after dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Really, the
only bad part about today is that as we dropped elevation into town, the evil,
evil gnats started relentlessly flying into my eyes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sitting <u>inside</u> now, about to eat an
awesome dinner, life could be far worse.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<st1:date day="9" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
9, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
This morning we climbed up out of Belden, from about 2,000
feet to 7,000.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This allowed me to escape
the bugs and get back up on the surrounding ridgelines with some very lovely
views of alpine lakes and what appeared to be granite rock formations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very hot today; it would have been a
great day for the lakes to be on the trail instead of inaccessible below.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This evening I took a detour to road walk and
pick up a pizza, and I will loop back to meet up with Ben about five miles
south on the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is two miles
longer but well worth it for pizza.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chester</st1:place></st1:city> to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Sierra</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">City</st1:placetype></st1:place>
is nearly 140 miles (one of our longest stretches) and we have had town food
everyday so far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am feeling like a
very spoiled thru-hiker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My body feels
tired today and I am definitely moving a little slower after the long day
yesterday and the climb this morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
will still do 27 miles for the day, which I am very happy with.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<st1:date day="10" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
10, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
My side trip of last night was going great until it started
getting dark and the junction from the road was super confusing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was misplaced for about 10 minutes but I
knew I was in the very near vicinity of where the trail crossed the road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was having all kinds of catastrophic
thoughts of never finding Ben when I spotted a blaze on the north side of the
road and I was back on the PCT!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now I
felt at home and only slightly worried about being in the dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a few minutes I saw a light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before I could even think “oh, thank God,
it’s Ben!” I realized it was a pair of glowing eyes staring at me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My heart leapt in my chest, but it was just a
deer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A terrifying cougar-deer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This happened five or six times before the
light was actually Ben and we had pizza and pop and all was right with the
world again.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
Today bugs tried to fly in my eyes much of the day, which
made me intermittently pretty grumpy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The highlight of the day was lunch at the Middle Fork of the <st1:place w:st="on">Feather River</st1:place>, which had fantastic swimming holes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were able to escape the heat and the bugs
for a couple hours, splashing around and floating downstream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was very, very tempting to spend the rest
of the day here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were very
responsible and hiked on, 23.5 miles for the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today was the first day since northern <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Washington</st1:place></st1:state> that we
didn’t see another person all day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
love it, and I hope the trend continues.</div>
<br />
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<st1:date day="11" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
11, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
Today moved really slowly for some reason.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We only walked 13 or 14 miles by <st1:time hour="15" minute="0" w:st="on">3 pm</st1:time>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then for some reason, we started talking about walking all night and
doing a 40 mile day to get close to town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The walking in the evening was beautiful, high on ridgelines with
phenomenal views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The moon was
illuminated in the sky as daylight faded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We took a dinner break at 25 miles, I was spacing out and exhausted and
just wanted to lay down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did feel
better when we started walking again, and rapidly became convinced that walking
all night was probably a terrible idea for my body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We camped at <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Summit</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Lake</st1:placetype></st1:place>,
calling it a day at a little over 29 miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As this leg from <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chester</st1:place></st1:city>
to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Sierra</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">City</st1:placetype></st1:place> goes on, I can feel my body protesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I feel worn down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the first time we have walked mid to
upper 29’s for several days in a row.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
have walked 109 miles in four days, averaging over 27 miles a day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<st1:date day="12" month="9" w:st="on" year="2013"><strong>September
12, 2013</strong></st1:date><o:p></o:p></div>
This morning I woke up with horrifically painful feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt like they were swollen and getting
shoved into my shoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked a very
slow and painful 15 miles downhill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Going down is so much harder on the body, especially when the trail is
rocky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am sounding quite the
complainer today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the bright side, we
walked around these beautiful rock formations called the Sierra Buttes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I actually spotted them on the horizon
several days ago, their craggy outline calling to the climber in me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Little did I know we would be walking right
beside them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After descending we walked
the highway into <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Sierra</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">City</st1:placetype></st1:place> to discover that the
Post Office closed at <st1:time hour="14" minute="0" w:st="on">2 pm</st1:time>
instead of <st1:time hour="16" minute="30" w:st="on">4:30</st1:time> as listed
in the guide book.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe it is a
blessing that we are stuck in town for the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had pizza and root beer floats, did
laundry and then went across the street to the Old Sierra Hotel for a burger
and a beer that turned into a couple beers and couple shots of Jager.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had the pleasure of visiting with locals
and other travelers passing through.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>While we were eating a storm passed over, complete with thunder, a
downpour and a double rainbow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It felt so
peaceful to sit on the patio and watch the rain fall, warm and dry and content
with nowhere to go and nothing you need to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After the rain passed we set up camp on the backyard of the church and
shared a pint of Ben and Jerry’s Peach Cobbler ice cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have been craving it the whole trip and it
has taken us nearly 1,500 miles to find it!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<o:p>Double Rainbow - Sierra City PO</o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-2073745374199458302013-09-14T16:13:00.001-07:002013-09-14T16:13:08.377-07:00Burney to Chester
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Transcribed: September 14, 2013</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">From the Journal: August 31, 2013</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mom and I got up super early (maybe I am finally used to
trail schedule) and got town chores done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This included finding coconut soy lattes and having blueberry pie for
breakfast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got to spend time with Mom
and Mike before we headed back up to the state park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben and I have decided to hike the very hot
and dry Hat Creek Rim together so we met up in the afternoon to nearo out of
town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked 12 miles to the Crystal
Lake Hatchery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked past Baum Lake
right at dusk, and saw several herons take flight into the pastel sky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also saw an owl and many deer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a magical evening for wildlife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Huff and Bomber picked us up and we got to
have a lovely dinner with friends.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 2, 2013</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Yesterday we took an impromptu zero to hang with Huff and
Puff and Cherry Bomb before they headed back to San Francisco.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had an awesome breakfast at JJ’s Café
before heading back to the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We fed
some albino rainbow trout and gazed at these huge white birds (herons or
egrets) before saying farewell to our trail buddies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And so Smooth and I headed out to the
heat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At noon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not our best planning but there was some
cloud cover at least.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked 14 miles
to the water cache at Road 22.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sunset
was beautiful with all the clouds and Shasta on one side and Lassen on the
other.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have heard a lot of complaints
about Hat Creek Rim, but everyone has failed to mention the beautiful
views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s good to be back at
home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Breakfast at Old Station</div>
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 3, 2013</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I am sitting at camp, eating chocolate and sipping on wine
that Smooth and Huff cached at Old Station.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It has been a great day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hat
Creek Rim was nowhere near “unbearably hot” and there was plenty of water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stopped at the store in Old Station for
Squirt and ice cream bars before heading on our way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are now camped beside Hat Creek, about to
walk into Lassen National Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>24 miles
today.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 4, 2013</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The area surrounding Lassen was made stark by the burn that
went through last year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We followed a
chain of lakes through the blackened area and had a relaxing lunch on the
shores of Lower Twin Lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw the very
strange Boiling Springs Lake and the boiling mud pots that surrounded it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As dusk was approaching we got back on the
PCT and took a detour northbound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
conveniently realized this mistake after making camp and so will have a few
more miles into town tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 6, 2013</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Yesterday we walked
17 miles into Chester by 12:45.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Going to
town can inspire some efficient walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One of our first stops was “The Dentist”. Dr. Webb and his office
manager, Karen, do awesome trail magic giving dental hygiene supplies and meal
vouchers to a local Mexican restaurant for hikers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Karen, (aka, The Tooth Fairy), was absolutely
wonderful to talk to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Naturally , our
next stop was the Mexican restaurant for margaritas and fajitas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have been intermittently eating, resting,
catching up with family and friends, and taking care of town chores.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were going to leave town but ended up
taking a rest day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am so glad, both
because we have a lot of prep over the next few weeks before going into the
Sierra (switching gear, new map sets) and because Benny’s foot is bothering him
and needed a day of resting and ice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Chester has been super friendly, and we are on to Sierra City in the
morning.</span></div>
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Fajitas and margaritas in Chester</div>
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Trying on hats - getting ready for the Sierras</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-46139775522725169412013-09-14T15:28:00.002-07:002013-09-14T15:51:02.843-07:00Carter Meadows to Burney Falls State Park<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Transcribed: September 14, 2013</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">From the Journal: August 23, 2013</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ben took off early this morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mom and I got on trail after outfitting me
with new clothes and shoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I feel
pretty snazzy and maybe almost clean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Mike headed to the ocean, he will meet Mom and I in Burney in eight
days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today we walked through the
Trinity Alps, which was absolutely gorgeous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Craggy peaks, beautiful clouds in the sky, Mount Shasta in the distance,
picturesque lakes in the basins below.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Most of the walking today is between 6,000 and 7,000 feet and the
expansive views are stunning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There seems
to be much less smoke and I have my mama here and we get to chatter away and
catch up about everything under the sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We walked about 20 miles by 5:30 and called it a day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a lovely time to be done hiking for
the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are cowboy camped near the
Scott Mountain Trailhead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hopefully I
will get a good night of sleep and we will have an amazing day of walking
tomorrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn’t expect to catch Ben,
but I’m still sad that I didn’t. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am
also overwhelmingly glad to have my Mom around to share a part of this journey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 24, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">What an awesome day of hiking with Mom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was awesome to sleep 9+ hours, I needed
the rest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were walking at 6:00 and
were able to greet the beautiful day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
were chasing some cows up the trail for a while, but they did not try to charge
us, which was good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The views continue
to be expansive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m pretty impressed
with Northern California so far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
were awesome views of Shasta and great cloud formations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we were getting water from a spring, we
came across a patch of pitcher plants, which is a carnivorous plant, perhaps
similar to a Venus Fly Trap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were
very strange looking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mom and I have fun
with the flora and fauna identification.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We saw a good handful of North bounders today (maybe five) but definitely
less than we have been seeing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are
camped at this lava surrounded lake called Lower Deadfall Lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a lovely place to call home for the
night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mom did her longest day at 24
miles and we made it to camp by 6:30 pm, which is super early for thru-hiking
standards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had tortellini with pesto
and I am about to eat some chocolate and go to bed.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<em>Darlingtonia californica </em>- Cobra Lily</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 25, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mom and I woke up by the lake and were walking by 6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before very long, it was pouring rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was somewhat discouraging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We made a short detour to Porcupine Lake for
water and had a short break from the rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I guess the silver lining of rain is that it’s good for miles – it is
less desirable to take breaks when you are cold on top of wet as soon as you
stop walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rain stopped around
midday and we had an awesome lunch up on this ridge with blue sky ahead and
very grey sky behind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the afternoon
we entered the Castle Crag Wilderness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The rock formations are unbelievable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From a distance the silver-grey spires and towers really looked like an
enchanted castle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stood in awe and
took a pretty ridiculous amount of pictures as we drew closer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I want to climb these mystery peaks so badly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very ominous thunder and lightning was
chasing us, but luckily stayed a good distance away on the other side of the
ridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will say the crazy weather made
for some magnificent clouds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
evening we dropped down into the forest and are about 10 miles from
Castella.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mom rocked out 26 miles
today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are falling asleep to a symphony
of crickets.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p>Entering Castle Crags Wilderness</o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p>Castle Crags</o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 28, 2013</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have been a much better hiker than journalist for the last
few days so I will have to play catch up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The 26<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> was a very important day with Mom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the anniversary of the day BJ died and
I could not have asked for a better way to spend it then a day walking with my
Mom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got into town and had coffee and
good food and later beer and ice cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We ran into Ben waiting for a package until the Post Office opened the
next morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We camped at the State
Park, had awesome sandwiches and homemade guacamole and a campfire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was most relaxing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The next day we got back on trail and walked about 20
miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was very hot; luckily the
trail was mostly forested.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were
very nice views of Mount Shasta (finally out of the clouds) and the other side
of Castle Crags.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are very evil
gnats that constantly try to fly into my eyes when we are below 4,000 feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I instantly regret sending home my bug net to
save one ounce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps the most
exciting part of the day is that I finally saw a bear!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was just ambling around in the woods when
I was scouting for a campsite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Neither
of us seemed particularly upset about the encounter and he did not eat Mom or I
while we slept.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Today was also an excellent day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were walking by 7 (I was in complete
snooze mode this morning).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took
breaks by a couple of nice creeks and walked along the raging McCloud
River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We climbed high enough to escape
the bugs and broke out of the trees to walk along the flanks of Grinley
Peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I believe we walked 24 miles today;
Mom and I are ready for bed, but otherwise feeling good!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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Mt. Shasta and Shastina (far left)</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 29, 2013</span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I am so tired this evening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Mom and I did another 24 mile day, which is awesome!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The morning was beautiful and cool, with
expansive views of green hillsides that look like they are moss-covered and
would be awesome to roll down but in reality are shrub covered and would
probably be quite painful to roll down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Mount Shasta was rising out of the clouds this morning; we are quite
close to her still.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A lot of the day was
hot, water sources were sparse and off-trail and much of the trail wound
through active logging sites.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This part
was honestly pretty depressing and not at all what you would want or expect
from a wilderness experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also
found a rattlesnake, which moved away but then coiled up very
aggressively.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We gave him a very wide
berth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we found this awesome
campsite with a gorgeous view of Shasta and the sunset.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stillness that set in as the sun sunk
below the clouds seems to fill up the whole world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We released some of BJ’s ashes to the wind at
sunset.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a perfect way to end my
last night with Mom on the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
time has been wonderful and rich, and went way too fast!</span><br />
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Our last night together - Rachel journaling before bed, Shasta in the background</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 30, 2013</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mom and I were up before sunrise in our beautiful
campsite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The silhouette of Shasta was
barely visible on the still dark horizon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Actually, I think Mom was up most of the night watching shooting stars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We made good time into Burney, taking one
relaxing break to soak our feet in ice cold Rock Creek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ran into Smooth at the camp store, he had
not yet been successful hitching out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
had hot dogs, and a root beer float, and then the three of us pretty quickly
got a hitch into town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Soon after, Mike,
(Road Warrior), Huff and Puff and Cherry Bomb showed up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben left to hang out with visiting friends
and I had an awesome steak dinner with my parents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mom and I were up late talking, wishing she
could continue on and that we were sleeping under the stars.</span></div>
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Soaking feet in icy cold water</div>
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Only 1418 miles to Mexico!</div>
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Burney Falls State Park</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-52794324469760669862013-09-14T15:07:00.000-07:002013-09-21T19:24:18.287-07:00Seiad Valley to Carter MeadowsTranscribed: September 14, 2013<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>From the Journal: August 19, 2013<o:p></o:p></strong></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This morning we watched the sunrise before descending to
Seiad Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got an early start, but
the day got hotter and hotter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The final
mile on the road into town was boiling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I was chugging all of the very hot water I carried. Luckily the town has
an awesome diner with AC and burgers and Dr. Pepper and root beer floats for
dessert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This made everything pretty
immediately better.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was 102 in the
shade so we got our packages and went to the store and rested in the shade for
a few hours before it was bearable to move again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got back on the road about 6 pm and walked
6.4 miles back to the trail before setting up camp for the evening. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 20, 2013</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ben and I went our separate ways this morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He left camp before me and the world became
very sad and quiet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hiked up this
beautiful valley that Grider Creek runs through.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a stark contrast from yesterday’s dry
heat to be in this cool shade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a
very gradual climb and I have too much food coming out of town, per usual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I notice it is much less fun to take breaks
so I am making good time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This afternoon
I came around a corner and saw my friend Ben writing me a note about a Mama
bear and cub he had just seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
glad to see each other; it was quite strange to be alone after spending nearly
all of the last months together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ended up walking the last ten miles to camp
together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Marble Mountain Wilderness
and the peaks around us are stunning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
has also been the worse day as far as smoke in the air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The moon is full and bright orange.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 21, 2013</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ben and I walked out of camp together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walking was beautiful, up high on
ridgelines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I passed this gorgeous teal
lake below sheer cliff sides called Maneater Lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was an inviting swim but pretty far off
trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I made the mistake of mentioning
that a little rain would be refreshing, and the next thing you know we are in a
hail and thunder storm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
thankfully short lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben helped me
set up camp a few miles North of Etna Summit before continuing on.</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 22, 2013</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I slept alone in the woods for the first time ever last
night and I did not die.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I woke up sad
but also a bit proud of myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
started walking and am meeting Mom and Mike this evening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is warm today, and the sky to the south is
full of foreboding, gunmetal grey clouds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It looked like weather again and it wasn’t long before hail and
lightening and pouring rain fell from the sky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In between storm intervals, I was loving walking on this traverse up a
very vast and quiet valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It made me
feel very small and alone, in a way that might feel good when I get used to
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The storm raged on and water was
pouring down the trail in rivers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Walking on seemed to be the only thing to do, I would freeze if I
stopped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was getting progressively
more miserable when I turned a corner to see Ben setting up his tent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He had been worried and wanted to wait for
me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was so nice to have a dry place
to take shelter, to put more layers on and actually eat lunch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The storm blew itself out pretty quickly and
we walked the last six miles down to Carter Summit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was so awesome to see Great Blue Heron and Road Warrior
(Mom and Mike).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hadn’t seen my mama in
a month, which I think may be the longest ever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We all set up camp and had cold beer, pulled pork sandwiches and fresh
fruit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is amazing to have family
around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I feel so lucky!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-84010762237421192342013-09-14T14:50:00.004-07:002013-09-14T20:01:41.935-07:00We made it to California!!<br />
Transcribed: September 14, 2013<br />
<br />
<strong>August 13, 2013 (continued)</strong><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The last few days I have been running into lots of solo
female hikers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They seem to be very
happy and doing well on their own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
encouraging and empowering to see, as Ben and I have decided to continue on in
our individual journeys when we reach Seiad Valley, the first town in
California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am excited and I am
afraid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve never spent a night out by
myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m quiet and reflective today,
trying to wrap my mind around it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today
I walked 24 miles, we are camped near Fish Lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ben walked down to the resort for burgers and
soda and brought it back to the trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
do have the company of a wonderful hiking partner for a few more days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 14, 2013</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I am feeling content.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A good day’s walk and lots of yummy food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is smoke in the air limiting visibility
but it doesn’t seem to be affecting the air quality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are seeing a ton of north bounders, I
think we have hit the herd.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The forest
is beautiful, lots of old growth trees and huge pine cones along the
trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This morning we had several miles
of lava, which thankfully was easier on the feet than northern Oregon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The feet seem to be toughening up, they felt
well enough to have a walking dance party before hitting camp this
evening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And we found awesome trail
magic in the form of ice cold root beer and microbrews alongside a gravel
road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now, time for a good night’s rest
before I do it all again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 15, 2013</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have been on the trail for two months today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can feel myself adjusting to it, the
routines are getting easier, and it is feeling more like a way of life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I still find myself worrying a lot, about
being late for Mexico I guess.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My feet
are falling apart again; I think my shoes may be too narrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will try to remedy that problem when we get
to Callahan’s Lodge near Ashland tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Today was the first day it was significantly hotter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More of the terrain was exposed today as
well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will have to try to get up
earlier to utilize the cooler morning hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Probably the best thing about today was going off trail to Green Springs
Inn for lunch where we enjoyed a free beer for hikers, amazing burgers and
salad, with marionberry pie a la mode for dessert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In my delirious state in the midday heat, I
was dreaming of ice cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We packed out
three kinds of pie for the trail, which I am about to dig into.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally, the smoke in the air makes for some
brilliant red sunsets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pie time!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 17, 2013</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I am back on the trail after a relaxing nearo at Callahan’s
Lodge near Ashland yesterday.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked
12 miles in and spent the rest of the day eating great food and relaxing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a beautiful wooden lodge with this
huge flower covered patio that had humming birds flitting all around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lodge is awesome to hikers – they offer a
free beer, bottom-less spaghetti dinner and awesome breakfasts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They even gave us a ride back to the
trail!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We started hiking around 11:30
this morning and put in 18 to 19 miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The feet are holding up so far, cutting a hole for my little toes to
have more room seems to have been a genius move.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have new shoes coming to Etna (thank
God).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walking today started off
really hot, but it cooled down nicely as evening wore on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were beautiful alpine meadows around
Mount Ashland, with wildflowers on their last legs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The corn lilies that I’ve been seeing the
whole trip are finally in bloom, they have lots of light green flowers coming
out of the stalk in vines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will be in
California in the morning; the border is nine miles away!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">August 18, 2013</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It has been a pretty epic day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have officially walked over 1,000
miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I walked into California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And, we did our longest day so far (somewhere
around 31 miles).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For once we actually
got a really early start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
walking by 5:30 and got to watch the sunrise as I was walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, I finally did a 10 by 10 (10 miles by 10
am), which is always Ben’s goal and perpetually seems to be thwarted by a love
of the snooze button.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was hot today but not awful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It does seem like I will need to be vigilant
of water sources from here on out, which was a non-issue earlier in the trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Oregon/California border was pretty
awesome, this day feels like it had a lot of milestones especially having a
chance to reflect after finishing the walking portion of the day.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Today is also very sad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is the last full day Benny and I will walk together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will go our own ways when we get back on
trail after Seiad Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All I can say
is that today is a wonderful day.</span><br />
<br />
(I don't have any pictures from Rachel for this section so will include some of the flowers we have seen when I've been able to hike with her)<br />
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Bunchberry Dogwood<br />
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Lupine and Paintbrush<br />
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Pinedrops<br />
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Jeffrey's Shooting Star</div>
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Avalanche Lily</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-90966539002885439172013-09-08T18:41:00.000-07:002013-09-08T18:41:08.749-07:00Thielsen to Devil's PeakTranscribed September 8, 2013<br />
<br />
<strong>From the Journal: August 9, 2013</strong><br />
I'm sitting on the dock at Diamond Lake, feeling the wind in my hair and the waves rocking underneath me. It is a peaceful afternoon, I know the mental and physical rest is much needed. Thielsen this morning was awesome! We left camp at seven and followed a scrambler's trail up the ridgeline. Higher on the ridge the trail turned to talus slopes, which were a bit slippery but manageable. The last 50 feet was exposed low 5th class climbing, which was fine going up but I had some lurking fears about down climbing some reachy moves. We could see south to Mount Shasta and to the mountains surrounding Crater Lake. You could just barely see the lake itself down in the caldera. The Sisters could barely be made out in the coulds. The skies have been full of the most amazing energy. We have had scattered thunder storms the last several afternoons. It was good to climb Thielsen in the morning, since it is known as the "lightening rod of the Cascades". The summit blocks have what looks like ribbons of fulgurite in the rock, which occurs when a lightening strike melts the silica in the rock. It was a beautiful clilmb and a worthwhile side trip for Oregon.<br />
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Diamond Lake</div>
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Mount Shasta</div>
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<strong>August 10, 2013</strong><br />
Today has been an amazing day! We were road walking out of Diamond Lake when a Jeep pulled up and out jumped Ryan (Gigantor/Beef)! We have been waiting to cross paths for weeks. We walked about five miles with him back to the PCT. He is so genuinely happy, it is inspiring. He just glows. He was talking about the silence of hiking, how much he enjoys being lost in his thoughts - thinking about loved ones, moments of glory and dreams. It's a good mindspace for me to think about, as one who is struggling to embrace silence. But, we traded good trail stories, we headed south and he continued north, straw hat and fishing pole and all. It rained on and off today, luckily the weather cleared as we approached Crater Lake. The lake is vast and majestic and so beautiful it made me cry. We took a side trail up to the Watchman, a fire lookout above 8,000 feet. Now we are camped on the rim of the caldera, overlooking Wizard Island and the lake far below. <br />
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<strong>August 12, 2013</strong><br />
I got too distracted to journal yesterday so I will play catch up today. I woke up on the edge of Crater Lake for the sunrise, which was beautiful beyond words. It was like a new day beginning with the freshest of breaths. Eventually we moved on, walked a bit further along the rim before descending back to the forest. It has been one of the most majestic places I've seen on the trail so far, and it was sad to walk past. One of my favorite parts of the lake was called Phantom Ship, a small craggy island tucked right against the cliffs. I think it is the oldest part of the volcano. We stopped in Mazama Village for important town chores like ice cream sandwiches and a hot shower. It took awhile to amble out of town. There is a meteor shower going on, and we cowboy camped to try to catch it. I woke and saw one meteor, I think Ben saw three or four. It continues tonight so hopefully we can find a campsite with a view of the open sky.<br />
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Today the walking was pleasant and forested. We were working on improving my navigation and having a sing-a-long with the iPod speaker. Tonight we are camped near 7,000 feet just past Devil's Peak. After sunset smoke blankets the landscape like gauze. It has tinted the moon a brilliant orange color.<br />
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<strong>August 13, 2013</strong><br />
First of all, the meteor shower last night was out of this world! There were some that looked like shooting stars and then five or six really bright meteors that glowed orange and left comet tails across the sky like a jet stream. They crossed vast portions of the sky and lasted much longer than a shooting star, maybe up to three seconds. Everytime I saw one my heart would start racing. It was like a silent firework show.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-89553552055468756812013-09-07T15:01:00.000-07:002013-09-07T15:01:08.310-07:00The Elevation Profile of the Trail and the MindTranscribed September 7, 2103<br />
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Pictures from Washington....high and low</div>
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<strong>From the Journal: August 1, 2013</strong><br />
Last night our attempt at coyboy camping was thrarted by rain showers. I was hoping it would pass and resisted leaving my warm bed, but we all had to retreat to the lower level of the fortress. We woke up in a cloud. The mountains to the north were intermittently visible but The Sisters were completely obscured. We walked on lava to start, and the feet seemed to be holding up. We did catch a few views of North and Middle Sister and it seemed like the clouds might lift, but as the day wore on, we got a bit of rain. It is disappointing to not have good visibility in this section, but it's not something we can control. On the bright side, the mist covered fields of lupine were beautiful, and it was amazing to walk through the obsidian area. Sharp and shiny black rocks lined the trail, encouraging one to stop and find the perfect piece. This afternoon we ran into Vogue, a fellow Southie! We hiked together for the rest of the evening and are camped near Sisters Mirror Lake. Dad was awesome, we rocked out 24 miles today!<br />
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Beautiful landscapes in Oregon.....tough on the feet</div>
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<strong>August 2, 2013</strong><br />
Today we got to sleep in, since we were meeting Karen (my lovely Step-Mom) around midday. We were still in a cloud this morning, and the mist on the lake was really beautiful. The weather seemed like it was improving, and we hiked 7 or 8 miles into Elk Lake. We somehow ended up on an alternate trail leaving camp and barely intersected Karen before she headed north on the PCT. Elk Lake had great burgers and beer, and we got there just in time to sit out pouring rain and thunder storms. With the deteriorating weather, it was tempting to go into Bend, but we sucked it up and headed back out. Between Karen and our friends from Zydeco (Jamie, Caitlin and Steph) we left with packs full of awesome food. Dad, Karen and Travis walked us out a few miles before we had to part ways. It is so special to hike sections with our loved ones, and so hard to say goodbye. Now that we are south of Bend, our hike will be less supported. I think I have gotten very spoiled. Benny and I hiked a few more miles before setting up camp at Dumbell Lake. I jumped in for a swim before the sun dipped below the trees, which was very refreshing and much less hypothermic than my last polar plunge. We sat by the lake and had awesome pretzel sandwiches, smoked cheddar, fresh blueberries and a classy box of wine. It doesn't get much better.<br />
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<strong>August 5, 2013</strong><br />
I have been slacking on the journaling. On the 3rd of August we walked about 14 miles before stopping for lunch and a swim at Brahma Lake. We had every intention to keep walking, but it was a pretty lake and the feet still suck so we ended up calling it a nearo. We spent the afternoon reading and relaxing. Yesterday we were cruising in the morning and planned to make it to Shelter Cove, but at lunch I had a new blister. When I started walking I was in sudden and excruciating pain. With a lot of bandaging and a half Vicodin, I was able to make nine more miles to Rosary Lakes. Ben ran ahead another 3+ miles to try to grab food at the Willamette Ski Area, but they had closed early. He did return with soda, licorice and beef jerky that another hiker generously gave him. Thank you Doug Fir! This morning we walked about five miles to Shelter Cove. We sat for several hours on the porch with other hikers, chatting and eating. Ice cream and soy lattes can do wonders. We packed out a pretty ridiculous amount of food and soda and set up camp five miles out at Diamond View Lake. Tomorrow we are taking a zero on the trail. I am feeling discouraged about taking time off, but the truth is, our feet need the rest. They simply won't heal. So I am going to try to enjoy tomorrow - to relax and try and quiet my ever present worries about making forward progress. I hope I can find the simplicity and peace I so desperately sought when embarking on this journey.<br />
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<strong>August 7, 2013</strong><br />
I am sitting by a lake getting ready to start walking again. I did almost nothing yesterday besides read, write, swim and rest. Hopefully it was good for the body and mind. I feel more settled, more present and will make it a daily intention to not worry. I'm going to try walking without my watch in hopes it will make me less frenetic. Today was an uneventful walk in the woods. The feet are maybe better, though I'm not sure we walked far enough to tell. It started raining so we pulled up camp two miles early. My mood goes up and down like the hills I walk on. It feels right to be walking through this, whatever "it" is. <br />
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<strong>August 8, 2013</strong><br />
I am sitting at the base of Mount Thielsen watching one of the very best sunsets of the trail and doing sun salutations and giving out the very best intentions to the universe. It is with pure and absolute joy that I emerge from the trees this evening, just in time to watch the red orb of the sun dip below the horizon. We walked over 25 miles today, the feet are sore but not awful, and we plan to try and climb Thielsen in the morning.<br />
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Getting it all down....whatever "it" is today</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-28667231431674878412013-09-04T19:14:00.002-07:002013-09-21T19:25:28.721-07:00Finishing up JulyTranscribed September 4, 2013<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: July 25, 2013</strong><br />
Back to the trail, after a relaxing morning at Timberlilne. We explored the nooks and crannies of the lodge, picked up our resupply package, and gorged at the breakfast buffet again before meeting Dad and Uncle Jerry. Between both sets of my parents, we were spoiled with all kinds of treats - Almond Roca, cookie bars, banana bread, tortellini, corn fritters. We walked out with enough food to feed an army. Dad and Uncle Jerry walked about 10 miles with us to the junction at Highway 26. It was very special to have the time with family. I haven't seen Uncle Jerry in over a year, so going for a hike was a great way to catch up. Dad is so happy to share in the journey, it was wonderful to see him. In a few days he will join us from McKenzie Pass to Elk Lake, which I am really looking forward to. We parted ways and walked another 4-ish miles. We have said goodbye to Hood and dropped into the forest. I'm always sad to leave another mountain behind, I almost trip looking back to catch glimpses. There is also a lot that lies ahead. The next four days will have to be about 26 miles each to arrive at McKenzie Pass on time. I sincerely hope my feet can hang in there.<br />
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<strong>July 26, 2013</strong><br />
Today we took an on-trail nearo. It was so hard to wake up, we started walking at 11. We walked four miles to Little Crater Lake and relaxed and enjoyed a sunny afternoon by the clear teal water. We walked from 5 to shortly after 11 pm and covered 16 more miles for the day. It felt like a very relaxing 20 mile day.<br />
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<strong>July 27, 2013</strong><br />
We got an early start this morning, as we had 20 miles to cover to meet Ben's friend, Travis, at Ollalie Lake by early afternoon. It was good walking, but my feet are giving me trouble. Being in the trees offered less distraction to the pain, but we talked and listened to classical music and made our way through the miles. Travis walked north to meet us and we all walked down to the lake. We took a much needed long break, had cold pop, washed our socks and I soaked my feet in the lake. Mount Jefferson sits right behind the lake. A bald eagle flew right over our lunch spot. We all continued south 10 more miles and are back in the high country just north of Jefferson Park. We had a beautiful sunset, had dinner and socialized and are camped out under the stars. They take your breath away with no ambient light to dim them. Travis is wonderful company - knowledgable and engaging. It is so great he was able to join Ben and I for a few days. I'm going back to my star gazing! Good night!<br />
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<strong>July 28, 2013</strong><br />
After I stopped journaling last night, the stars were amazing. I saw three or four shooting stars. It was hard to fall asleep when I was staring excitedly at the sky. Our campsite was slanted a bit downhill, which I think was making blood return from my feet difficult. I kept waking up with my feet throbbing in pain. I don't think I slept very much, and when I woke up, walking 25+ miles seemed like an impossible task. I did get moving, slowly as it was, and we climbed up to a ridgeline to Jefferson Park. There were beautiful views of Hood nearby, with just shadows of the Washington Cascades behind. To the west there was fog settling in the Willamette Valley. We continue to see a lot more people, and it is fun to hear about other adventures as we cross paths. Today we met a Dad and his two sons who are walking from Tahoe to the Oregon-Washington border. The boys were 14 and 16 and looked like they were having the time of their lives.<br />
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My pain level and mood ebbed and flowed as the day went on. Sometimes I could block it out and other times it seemed all-consuming. Still, the hours and miles passed. In the evening we put on music and played sing-a-long to silly, feel-good music (thank you Flight of the Conchords). Eventually we made it to Koko Lake, logging 27 miles for the day.<br />
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<strong>July 29, 2013</strong><br />
It was so hard to get up this morning. We had originally intended to walk 27 miles to McKenzie Pass, but, we quickly decided that our bodies needed a break. Santiam Pass was 10 miles away and we could access Sisters and Bend from there. Time for our first zero (no hiking miles) day. We walked right beside Three Fingered Jack, a volcanic peak with beautiful layers of red and black rock. Broken Top and the Three Sisters beckon from the south. All of the Oregon mountains look so different from the west, and have a lot less snow since the last time I was here. Travis, rockstar that he is, had left camp early, gone to the pass and come back with snacks and his car. He walked up trail to meet us with water that was not from a swampy lake AND carried my pack the last bit to the Trailhead, where there was cold soda and chocolate ice cream! Life got so much better so suddenly. The three of us drove down to Sisters and met Dad for lunch. We were able to work out a new plan for him to join us with our amended schedule. I may be learning to eat like a thru-hiker - I had a burger, pork sliders, hummus, onion rings, fries, deep fried avocado, marionberry pie and a couple of beers. We rested for the afternoon before meeting Dad for a late dinner. I am just trying to stay off my feet and hope they heal quickly.<br />
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<strong>July 31, 2013</strong><br />
Back to the trail this afternoon. My feet feel so much better. I had almost forgotten it feels good to walk all day. We walked 18 miles from Santiam Pass to McKenzie Pass. We have great company along with Dad and Travis. The first section continued through the burned area from Monday, and there was good cloud cover so it wasn't too hot. There were isolated rain and thunder showers, but they dissipated quickly and the weather cleared up. We walked several miles through lava fields, which was a bit hard on the feet and ankles, but they are so much stronger after a full day off. There are beautiful views of Mount Washington, which we walked past and the Three Sisters, which lie ahead. We are cowboy camped on the top of the Dee Wright Observatory, this awesome lava fortress in the mountains. We had ridden our bikes up here in the spring and it is an awesome place to camp. It feels good to be back on the trail.<br />
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Ben, Travis, Rachel</div>
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Walking Through the Burn Area</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-78091870957175364692013-09-04T17:24:00.003-07:002013-09-07T15:02:08.895-07:00Trekking to TimberlineTranscribed September 4, 2013<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: July 23, 2013</strong><br />
We left Cascade Locks yesterday and walked 14 miles up the Eagle Creek alternate route to Indian Springs Campground. The terrain was beautiful, a lush green valley with water running down the center. The highlight was definitely Tunnel Falls, a narrow ribbon of water cascading from the cliffs above. The trail is carved out behind the falls, so you walk through a tunnel of chiseled black rock which is dripping water from the falls above. The surrounding rock walls are covered with bright green moss and ferns. The mist from the falls drenched me as I walked past, which just made me laugh with joy. The whole scene was mystifying, like something out of a fairy tale. The last two miles were steep, and evening wore on to night as we reached camp. As the days get hotter, evening hiking is very comfortable. The late afternoon sun is beautiful, as the golden rays hit the greenery below. I was so tired last night that I fell asleep before even finishing the pizza we packed out from town.<br />
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<strong>July 24, 2013</strong><br />
I am relaxing in the Timberline Lodge after a day of much more sitting and eating than walking. We woke up to the sunrise at Paradise Park early this morning. The nearly full moon was still in the sky and the first rays of sun were rising behind Mount Hood. All of the surrounding mountains were lit up in soft pastels. I am rarely motivated to be up for sunrise, so it was very special. We walked six miles into the Lodge, which was painful as my blisters are flaring up again. We got to the Lodge shortly past 10 to discover that the breakfast buffet was open until 10:30! We went from walking to having delicious Bloody Mary's and amazing food in less than five minutes! I love it! The rest of the day we swam, napped, caught up with loved ones, and had dinner looking out at Mount Hood. It has been a peacful and rejuvinating day.<br />
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Yesterday ended up being too chaotic to write about before bed so I will try to catch up now. Most of the morning was uneventful. We were planning on a 26 mile day because we had a specific campsite in mind near Mount Hood. We took the alternate to Ramon Falls, which was beautiful. The water cascaded down the rocks in so many different streams and rivulets. When we got back to the junction with the PCT, we somehow headed the wrong way. We dropped about 1,000 feet and then saw cairns to cross the Sandy River, which we did need to cross. Once we got to the other side and found ourselves on a trail overgrown with Devil's Club, we realized our mistake. After a very discouraging few moments we picked ourselves up, crossed the river on a precarious twig of a tree and made our way back up the trail. At this point, our stubborness kicked in and we decided that since it wasn't getting any darker, we might as well hike to the camp we had been looking forward to. We crossed Sandy a third time (now in the dark) and started climbing ever closer to Hood. As we got higher, the moon rose above a ridgeline, bringing the silhouette of the mountain into view. You could hear and hardly see roaring waterfalls below us and the stars starting popping out. At this point it became difficult to be upset about much of anything. We turned our anger and frustration into determination. The evening really reinforced how well Ben and I work as a team. So we made it to camp at nearly midnight and cooked dinner and ate chocolate and watched the moonrise. We cowboy camped (slept without a tent) for the first time. Drifting off under the night sky was a beautiful end to the day.<br />
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"Empty yourself and let the universe fill you."<br />
"Wherever you go, go with all your heart." (Confucius)<br />
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A River Crossing Earlier on the PCT</div>
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"Tree Pose" finding peace within</div>
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The feet that are doing the walking</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-44640469900074055502013-08-10T20:02:00.001-07:002013-08-10T20:15:22.312-07:00Guest WriterAugust 10, 2013<br />
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I was fortunate enough to join Rach (Hot Mess) and Ben (Smooth) for the leg between Trout Lake and Cascade Locks! I absolutely loved it and fell into the rhythm easily. I need to be clear, I was very tired at the end of each day and happy to end each day with a nice camping spot and great food, but, I cherished the day to day walking. We had talked of me joining them for a leg and had considered some of the earlier sections but from the sounds of their snow travel I didn't want to slow their pace or worse yet, become a liability! They worked together so well during those challenging snow covered miles - it was amazing to read Rachel's journal and see Ben's photos/video - even then, the story is hard to really grasp. They KNOW what they went through, the rest of us can just try to imagine. The section I walked was comparatively very tame - perfect for me! <br />
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Mike and I drove to Trout Lake the night before and stayed at a lovely B and B - Kelly's Trout Creek Inn. Trout Lake closes up fairly early but we arrived in town to enjoy taco night at the Cafe which is attached to the service station. The tacos were so good, and though we hadn't hiked we had traveled a long section on a gravel road before FS 23 becomes paved so ice cold Coronas also hit the spot! We were up early to drive back to the trail head as Rach and Ben estimated they would be coming out about 8 am. Even on the trail they are on time! They emerged a little before 8 and we drove back in to Trout Lake for a mega breakfast at the cafe! After breakfast they went to the grocery store to add to the resupply box we had driven down and then once more we drove back to the tail head.<br />
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It was the highlight of my summer to back pack with them for five days and four nights! I really enjoy hiking and had done back packing in my college days but it has been over 30 years since I've spent more than one night on the trail! So, four nights! Not, only was the terrain very friendly to me, but the weather was perfect! Most of that section of the PCT is within the forest on fairly cushioned trail, the rest of it brings you out on ridges to view the world unobstructed! I felt as if I was traveling through an enchanted forest! It was very interesting and motivating to start walking with Mt. Adams so very close and then, four days later see how far away that same mountain had become! I am finishing up a Naturalist class with the Mountaineers so was happy to pass on knowledge of some of the plants I've learned, but, it seemed for every flower I knew there was one that I didn't know! I came home with some homework and have since passed on answers to the queries in resupply boxes. <br />
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Rach and I talk about how the trail "feeds our soul" and that was certainly reinforced with my small time on the trail. I was very happy to turn my phone completely off and hesitant to turn it back on when we got to Cascade Locks. I always brought up the rear and perhaps with a finite number of days ahead for me "on the trail" I was more easily able to "be present" without a lot of looking back or thinking forward. Rach introduced me to yoga over four years ago and it has been instrumental in assisting with the grief over the death of my son, BJ. The practice emphasizes "being present" and "finding comfort in the discomfort" among so many other teachings, and I really try to do both. So, those days really allowed me the best opportunity to "be present" and keep my mind from writing scripts that do not serve me well. <br />
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I was so impressed with Rach and Ben! They had to be in so much pain with their feet. I've not ever had blisters like they had, and yet, they just kept walking. They started out hobbling, treading so very carefully, but, within half an hour had found their pace and seemed to be walking almost effortlessly through the pain. I admire their deep friendship and care of each other. I respect their sense of adventure and the priorities they have set at this point of their life. When I was Rachel's age I was pregnant with Rach! That, was most definitely a beautiful thing. And, within two years I also was a mother to BJ - being a Mom is without a doubt the most rewarding facet of my life....but, it is just one way to do it. To work so had to be able to take a break from your working life, plan and execute a 2600+ mile trek seems very hard to really allow one's self to do but is rewarding in every way! <br />
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Thank you Rachel and Ben for letting me share a small section of your journey! Thank you for taking so much of the gear from me that I felt as if I was just carrying a day pack! Thank you for the mochas every morning, the delightful "second" breakfast, the amazing dinners (quesadillas and humus wraps - I mean really!), the endless high spirits, the alphabet game ("Q" is always a tough one!), the music at the end of the day when our biorythyms were low, and so much more! If there was ever a time in my "adult" life when I felt like letting the mortgage payment go and leaving the the youth of America in the hands of a younger teacher - this was it. I think that speaks to how rich your travel has been and will continue to be. Happy trails, namaste, and much love - Mom (Great Blue Heron)<br />
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Avalanche Lily</div>
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Loved her mosquito head cover!</div>
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Tiger Lily</div>
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The Enchanted Forest....can you find Rachel?!</div>
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Following Rach through a golden field</div>
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Breakfast at Cascade Locks!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-85063635228640486132013-07-27T12:52:00.001-07:002013-07-27T12:52:13.216-07:00Trout Lake to Cascade LocksTranscribed July 25-27, 2013<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: July 17, 2013</strong><br />
What an amazing day! The feet put up quite a protest this morning but we only had to walk an hour before Mom, Mike and Cooper were there to greet us. We went in to Trout Lake for breakfast - coffee, huckleberry french toast, eggs, sausage and hash browns. We went to the store to get a few snacks and re-organize our gear. We ran into Billy Goat and got to chat with him for a few minutes which was cool, like meeting a PCT celebrity. He hiked the trail for the first time in 1989 and hikes at least part of it every year.<br />
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At about noon, Mike dropped us off and we started walking with the third member of the wolf pack. Today we were mostly in the forest. My body is exhausted from Adams and appreciated the gentler terrain. Mom is a wealth of knowledge of our surroundings and such positive energy. It is so nice to have hours to talk instead of feeling rushed and playing catch-up. We saw so many frogs today, they seemed to be hopping across the trail around every corner. Right about sunset, we popped out of the woods into a meadow filled with beargrass. The light was fading behind Mt. St. Helens, which is the peak filling our skyline this evening. We made camp, watched the stars and ate huckleberry pie that we packed out. My soul is very content. 16 miles with Mom today and 2 miles this morning.<br />
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<strong>July 18, 2013</strong><br />
We are having so much fun today! We woke up in a very dewy meadow with very wet tents and sleeping bags. We had our first hot breakfast on the trail with REAL coffee! We continue to be in the forest with occasional views. Mom is a weath of knowledge about the flora that we pass by and is so excited about the naturalist class that she is taking. It is easy conversation between the three of us, which makes the miles pass fast. We had a very scenic lunch at Blue Lake and did our laundry. The sunlight glistening on the rippling teal water was beautiful. I'm a little regretful we didn't go swimming, buy my feet seem too fragile to walk while wet. They are still healing from the half step back of climbing Adams. After lunch we climbed high enough to have beautiful views of Hood, Jefferson, St. Helens and Adams. We dropped down to lower elevation (about 3000 feet) this evening and walked until about 8:30. Our mileage was about 19 for the day. It is awesome to see how naturally Mom adjusts to the pace of the trail. We might just have to keep her until Mexico!<br />
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<strong>July 19, 2013</strong><br />
We are camped by Trout Creek and I am exhausted. I felt very fatigued and a bit let down the last six miles this evening. I have two new blisters and I'm frustrated that my feet don't seem to want to toughen up yet. The walking today was relatively easy and we went 18 miles. Mostly lowland forest with plenty of wildflowers and plants to identify. We walked past some old growth trees whose bark was scarred with remnants of a distant burn. We had lunch at the Panther Creek Campground, Ben has family who are camp hosts there. They showed us wonderful hospitality. We visited and had chicken salad sandwiches, chicken noodle soup and root beer. They even sent us off with leftovers for dinner! Thank you Gary and Sally!<br />
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As of this evening we have hiked over 500 miles, which I am very proud of. Mom is being the best "on trail" trail angel and giving me a foot rub so really, life is pretty darn good right now.<br />
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<strong>July 20, 2013</strong><br />
Tonight is the last night I will spend in Washington for a while. In a way it makes me sad to leave my home state and I am also excited for the next chapters of this journey. It was another pleasant day of walking, in lush green forests. We climbed up on a ridgeline this afternoon to views of St. Helens, Rainier, Adams and Hood. It is amazing how far away the Washington Cascades look, proof that I have walked a pretty long way so far. We planned a longer day to make it to the next water source and ended up going 23 miles. Blue Heron was a rockstar! Walking downhill my blisters were speaking up as the evening wore on. We found a great campsite just when I felt like I couldn't take another step. We had wonderful quesadillas and soup for dinner and then laid back and watched the moon and stars through the trees. Seven miles to Cascade Locks tomorrow.<br />
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<strong>July 22, 2013</strong><br />
Yesterday was such a whirlwind I never had time to write, so I thought I would catch up this morning as I wake in a comfy bed and have a cup of coffee. We walked out of the forest yesterday with the Columbia River right in front of us with Oregon on the other side! It felt very surreal. Somehow I had imagined it as a pedestrian bridge, which it definitely is not. Cars were going by, which made everything seem fast, as it often does in town. The bridge is grated, so you can see the waters of the Columbia far below your feet as the wind whips you around. I found this to be very exhilarating! We paused to take photographs at the "Welcome to Oregon" sign and ceremoniously threw BJ's ashes to the wind right at the state line. Over on the Oregon side of the river we relaxed, ate breakfast and ran into Nat and Jane! Ben's Dad arrived in town shortly thereafter so we ran a few town errands and then went to the beautiful Skamania Lodge for a drink. It it the strangest feeling, after days on the trail, to be sitting on a veranda overlooking the Columbia River Gorge, having a glass of wine. It makes you feel very lucky. We had amazing Mexican food for dinner (steak fajitas and smoked pork chili verde) and finished the whole thing off with ice cream cones before heading back to the hotel. Mike (my stepdad) showed up with all of the gear, and so began the frenzy of reorganizing and resupplying. We soaked our aching feet in Epsom salts, which felt amazing. I wish it was possible to soak them everyday, they feel better this morning than they have in weeks. I am off to breakfast, to visit Herman the Sturgeon and then get back on trail this afternoon. Thank you to Jon, Mom and Mike for visiting and making our welcome to Oregon so special and to Mom for walking this unforgettable leg of our journey with us!<br />
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Morning in the Meadow</div>
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Moving Away (South) from Mount Adams</div>
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Continual Foot Care</div>
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Blue Lake - A Perfect Ledge for Diving and Filling Water Bottles</div>
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Mount Hood</div>
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Coming Out of the Forest </div>
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Bridge of the Gods</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-62237589545575131272013-07-24T15:43:00.000-07:002013-07-24T15:43:25.302-07:00PCT PlusJuly 24, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: July 13, 2013</strong><br />
We are camped at Lutz Lake, about 13 miles south of White Pass. The morning was gloriously relaxing. We sat at the Kracker Barrel and had lattes and danishes and deli sandwiches and pizza. We hung out with Nat and Jane, two southbounders we met a few days ago. There were several section hikers that came through as well and we had a little impromptu hiker trash gathering. It was so fun to talk with people and hear about their journeys. We walked out with Nat and Jane at about 12:30. They are a super awesome couple from Alaska. We walked up and over the ski area and eventually climbed into the Goat Rocks wilderness. It is stunning - views of Adams and Rainier, dramatic craggy ridgelines, the daunting knife edge in the distance which we will cross tomorrow. It is fun to have new company and have a bit of a group to hike with. We had dinner together and swapped stories. Today was a very good day, and a wonderful start to out last Washington leg.<br />
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<strong>July 14, 2013</strong><br />
The moon guided us into camp tonight after a truly stunning day of hiking. We climbed up to nearly 7000 feet with spectacular views of Mount Rainier. Wildflowers of all colors dotted the hillsides. The trail follows a narrow ridgeline, which was luckily free of snow. We took a break to revel in the sights and left BJ on top of the world with a view of one of his favorite mountains. At times it feels as if the trail is ready to crumble under your feet so it is imperative to step carefully. The trail comes to a junction where you can traverse the slope or go up and over Old Snowy Mountain. Ben and I chose the traverse, Nat and Jane opted to go up. It sounds like they chose the more enjoyable route. Our snow crossings weren't bad but climbing across the loose talus was like walking on pieces of broken ceramic, like the earth is breaking away under you. We rejoined our friends on the other side and crossed the Packwood Glacier. I was sad to leave the views of Rainier but they were traded for the silhouettes of Adams and St. Helens. We dropped lower for a few miles before entering a lush green valley crowned with breathtaking cliffs. We passed above and below rushing waterfalls and climbed over Cispus Pass. There were a few snow traverses, which are rumored to be our last. I took a short slide on the backside of the pass but was able to arrest quickly. We had dinner at one of the many Sheep Lakes and then Ben and I walked another four miles. The light was beautiful shining through the trees. We caught glimpses of Adams, illuminated pink in the alpenglow with a crescent moon rising behind. The beauty would literally stop me in my tracks. Today was 17 miles of reveling in the beauty of this country.<br />
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<strong>July 15, 2013</strong><br />
As of today, we have been on the trail for a month. It feels more like home each day. I felt overjoyed all day, walking with our friends, listening to music, taking breaks, soaking in the views. Most of the day was easy forest walking with occasional views of Rainier and the Goat Rocks behind. We stopped at Lava Spring, a water source with a spring flowing under the lava rocks flanking Mount Adams. We had dinner next to a cascading waterfall at Killen Creek right at the base of Adams. I'm laughing as I write this, thinking it sounds too good to be true. I will say there are mosquitoes and my feet still hurt. After dinner we climbed up the High Camp Trail. Ben and I decided to transition to snow, while Nat and Jane stayed on rock. The slope was a lot steeper than it looked and too steep to safely traverse as we had intended. We headed up. Ben believes it was at least a 50 degree slope. It was very hard for me to stay calm and control the climbing mind space, but I managed. We made it safely to the top of the slope to admire the sun burning red and illuminating the skyline with Rainier and St. Helens dominating the horizon. There is layer after layer of mountains. Adams was lit up a rusty red in the alpenglow. Yesterday we admired her from a distance, tonight we sit at 7000 feet ready to carry over from Northwest Ridge to the South Spur in the morning. <br />
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<strong>July 16, 2013</strong><br />
I am so exhausted but it was such an incredible day that I have to get it down on paper before I go to bed. First of all, we had our longest day in hours today - 17, from 5 am to 10 pm. I have no idea how many miles, but we were able to carryover Mount Adams, which was amazing! Our net elevation change was nearly 14,000 feet, which explains my throbbing feet. When I woke up at 4 light was just starting to touch the edge of the eastern sky. We gained elevation, Rainier and St. Helen's glowed in the first rays of sun. The flanks of Adams shone a rosy pink. It was an exquisiste morning, the first sunrise I have seen on the trip. I love my snooze button, what can I say? We slowly and steadily climbed up the ridge. A lot of the climbing was on loose volcanic rock and soil, so that you take a step forward and slide half a step back. The route was less complicated than it appeared from below, it kind of revealed itself to us as we went up. I got noticeably lethargic from the altitude between 10,000 and 11,000 feet but was able to drink, eat and push on. At about 11,500 feet we transitioned back to snow and topped out at 12,281 feet. The views were incredible! We had Rainier and the Goat Rocks to the north, St. Helens to the west, and Hood and Jefferson to the south. I truly felt like I was in the heart of the Cascades. Ben and I dispersed BJ's ashes - he is now on every major peak he climbed except Hood....weather was coming in, it was cold, windy and snowing, so we quickly headed down. We made good time, walking and doing some epic glissades until we got to a protected spot for lunch. Toward the end of our break rain clouds and distant thunder and lightening rolled in. Just a reminder that we're still in Washington. There were some steep snow slopes on the descent that I honestly didn't have the mental reserves for. I am so excited to get rid of my ice axe tomorrow. We finally made our way down to the trail that circumnavigates Adams, walked 6 miles back to the PCT, then made it another 4 miles before setting up camp on the trail yet again. The last part of the day was spent walking through a more recent looking burn. The moon shining through the dark and skeletal trees casts a ghostly beauty over these woods. Nat and Jane camped about a mile back. It was sad to say goodbye, we have had an amazing time with them through the Goat Rocks and Adams. It is amazing how the trail can bond you. I'm sure we will see them down the trail in Oregon. Tomorrow morning we only have to walk 2.5 miles before meeting Mom and Mike for a hot breakfast and real coffee!! And then Blue Heron will get to walk with us for five days. I am so excited!!<br />
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<strong>Note:</strong> I do not have any access to pictures from this stretch, a small limitation. I do have pictures that Rach sent me that include photos from Hart's Pass up to Snoqualmie Pass. I will include some of those which are a testament to the amount of snow and beautiful (though exhausting) terrain they've crossed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH7bfvsYtUshwZIG9-LPZaKb6GQugUhWdGurpzGJnUNQ6yTid7ztrBcRnsgWPAcXLkLr-U1vnbo_E5iSs82k5tEakyzZBwR8L7ZN2IUtvIn8X0RzQ1oX6jFSqGkeSwvHnY_TEfagiq-Z0/s1600/IMG_0469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH7bfvsYtUshwZIG9-LPZaKb6GQugUhWdGurpzGJnUNQ6yTid7ztrBcRnsgWPAcXLkLr-U1vnbo_E5iSs82k5tEakyzZBwR8L7ZN2IUtvIn8X0RzQ1oX6jFSqGkeSwvHnY_TEfagiq-Z0/s320/IMG_0469.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Rach on one of the many snow traverses - trail up ahead!</div>
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This may be one of the "death" traverses </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZiceBq91cRSaZUrW6fJjxCG6Xo5Wqi3tw3rfKVeCyDvbTzsmgG5J3QXws_lKoexKra5X1cMi0B6serOGPygHHCSHbdyRn7GpYOTn7Xp4fdpCvzd-ZlWSBc9koCN0agHfP0SbeoYvMkM/s1600/IMG_0474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZiceBq91cRSaZUrW6fJjxCG6Xo5Wqi3tw3rfKVeCyDvbTzsmgG5J3QXws_lKoexKra5X1cMi0B6serOGPygHHCSHbdyRn7GpYOTn7Xp4fdpCvzd-ZlWSBc9koCN0agHfP0SbeoYvMkM/s320/IMG_0474.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Campsite with solitude and a view.....priceless!</div>
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Approaching the knife edge</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6itAi5pRnKSk-AutubQwnn06Fk2ppSgwkVyLSk8IYuqYGjqLEEEL6QYwHPkm33qI9_e7jv7hEo7bMAfCPLfGHbNcxLmtgBGhIlRn-a-Morvzmzz2l4trnAt_IId61NPnPiOhMtIfjIU/s1600/IMG_0477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6itAi5pRnKSk-AutubQwnn06Fk2ppSgwkVyLSk8IYuqYGjqLEEEL6QYwHPkm33qI9_e7jv7hEo7bMAfCPLfGHbNcxLmtgBGhIlRn-a-Morvzmzz2l4trnAt_IId61NPnPiOhMtIfjIU/s320/IMG_0477.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Day Journaling on June 29, 2013</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-55504169412191749772013-07-23T22:39:00.002-07:002013-07-24T15:45:01.856-07:00Snoqualmie Pass to White PassJuly 23, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: July 8, 2013</strong><br />
We left from Snoqualmie Pass this morning. Mom walked out with us 3-4 miles which seemed to make saying good-bye easier, more of a gradual transition. It's strange because I thought it would be most difficult to leave Snoqualmie. We continued on after Mom left. I feel quiet today and thoughtful. Mostly in a happy way, though leaving loved ones is always a challenge. Only a few patches of snow today. We are walking through newer forests that have been logged in recent decades. It is still beautiful in it's own way. I call it a forest of new beginnings. Lupine and paintbrush and bear grass are sprawled out underneath the trees. We are camped on a forest road with a view of Mount Rainier. She's a lot closer since the last time I saw her. 20 miles today. My feet started hurting near the end of the day but less than I expected. The zero day yesterday was good for my body, heart and soul.<br />
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Walking from Snoqualmie Pass</div>
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Walking from Snoqualmie Pass - Beaver Lake</div>
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Final goodies to add to pack as Mom heads back to TH - popcorn and cherries!</div>
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<strong>July 9, 2013</strong><br />
Today was uneventful in most ways, which is certainly not a bad thing. It is nice to have a mental break and let the miles float by. We did have to start paying attention to water sources, we had a 15 mile stretch without water today. I guess this is the downside to traveling with no snow. Both Ben and I are having a really hard time with our feet, maybe the aftermath of very wet conditions and traveling off trail in steep terrain. We were noticeably limping by the evening and ended up setting up camp on the trail. It is tempting to push for more miles but I feel like we will be worse off the next day. We met three northbound section hikers today, they made it sound as if there is less snow ahead. Despite blisters, my spirits ae high! We had mac and cheese burritos and chocolate for dinner and I'm headed to bed early. 19 miles today.<br />
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<strong>July 10, 2013</strong><br />
When we woke up this morning our feet were still in horrible shape. It took over an hour to drain and bandage blisters. We hobbled 4 miles to a much needed water source and another 5 to Urich Camp. My feet are bad but Benny's are worse. We both have blisters under the balls of our heels. At Urich Camp there is a log cabin built by a snowmobiler's club. I turned the corner and felt like I was Laura Ingalls Wilder in "Little House on the Prairie". So we have been sitting on the porch since 2 pm, resting our and feet and watching the world go by. Two groups of people four wheeling came by, one of which gave us grilled hot dogs and fresh water. Nat and Jane, two southbound hikers came through and we were able to swap stories about our experiences so far. They seem really awesome, it would be great if we caught up with them soon.<br />
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<strong>July 11, 2013</strong><br />
I woke up in our log cabin to a cool and misty morning. I looked out the window and saw two bull elk grazing in the meadow. They let us take a few pictures before gracefully running off. It was sprinkling on and off for a few hours before the clouds lifted to reveal another beautiful sunny day. We met two northbound hikers who had left the Mexican border in early April and skipped a few sections, including the Goat Rocks. We are getting very mixed reviews of the snow conditions in the Goat Rocks, which is two days south of us. We got a little off track and ended up walking up a wrong pass, but when we got to the top Mount Rainier was right in front of us, dazzling white in the sunlight. It's nearly impossible to fret about a detour when you're rewarded with such a view! Dad walked up from Crystal Mountain and walked with us for a few hours. It was very exciting to turn a corner and have family there! Dad turned around about 6:30, we made soup and then walked down to Chinook Pass. Feet are painful, but tolerable to walk on. We made 23 miles today.<br />
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Meeting up with Dad on the Trail</div>
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With Benny on the Trail</div>
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<strong>July 12, 2013</strong><br />
Today was our longest day yet - we walked 30 miles into White Pass! Surprisingly, my feet appear to have been mostly cooperative. It was cold and grey this morning, it never really warmed up but it didn't rain. We had a really unique view of the southeast side of Mount Rainier with Little Tahoma in the foreground and much of Rainier shrouded in clouds. We dropped lower for the latter part of the day, into a marshy wetland dotted with lakes (and filled with mosquitoes). We are now stealth camped behind the motel and will pick up our resupply packages in the morning. Since we're already here, we will even get to sleep in a little bit!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-60789896336071469002013-07-07T14:55:00.000-07:002013-07-07T14:55:03.734-07:00Stevens Pass to Snoqualmie Pass<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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July 3, 2013<br />
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I didn't have a chance to write yesterday, so I will sum it up briefly. There was less snow and the trail was easier to keep. We had lunch at Lake Valhalla, which was a deep sapphire blue with pieces of snow floating amongst it. Mom and Dad walked out to meet us and it made my heart leap with joy to see them coming up the trail. We had burgers and milkshakes at the 59 Diner and ran errands in Leavenworth. The dropped us back off at dusk. It was hard to say goodbye. I cry every time I get back on the trail. I wonder if it will get easier as I get further from home.<br />
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Today we entered the land of lakes. We are in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. We walked up and over Stevens Pass, underneath the chair lifts. I always think ski resorts look so desolate without snow. And there is noticeably less snow today. There has been a shift in the landscape, you can tell we have left the North Cascades. The mountains are greener and less rugged. We had lunch beside Mig Lake. It makes one feel so rich to have an abundance of food again. We climbed up Trap Pass with stunning views of teal Trap Lake below. We continued on past surprise Lake and took an alternate route up Surprise Gap. it was a bit of a climb up steep snow, but we both agree we've gotten a bit desensitized to the snow. Looking north behind us, Glacier Peak was illuminated in the fading daylight with Glacier Lake just below us. We descended to Deception Lakes, where we are camped on a little piece of land surrounded on three sides by water. This is probably my favorite campsite so far. I saw the lake and had an overwhelming urge to get in, even though it was nearly dark and not getting any warmer. It was freezing, and also exhilarating. I finally feel clean after not showering for 12 days. I got really cold afterwards, but Ben made me tea and hot tortellini that Blue Heron (Mom) brought us. We turned off our headlamps and took in the stars. There literally take your breath away. I feel very lucky. 18.5 miles today.<br />
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July 4, 2013<br />
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I am sitting at Peggy's Pond tucked between Cathedral Rock and Mount Daniel. It is so serene here, like I am hidden away in this little pocket of the mountains. The day was productive and the miles gentler. We walked 12 miles by about 230. The main obstacle of note was crossing the Mount Daniel runoff. We went across as a team with me holding onto Ben's pack. The water was thigh deep and very powerful. It was so scary feeling like you might get swept away. This evening we are planning to walk partway up Daniel to see the fireworks. It is so nice to have this afternoon to soak in the beauty. I have been meditating on the difference between simple and easy today. The trail is far from easy but I revel in the simplicity.<br />
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So our firework viewing was thwarted by high winds. We walked up and watched clouds roll over the summit like illuminated golden smoke. I leaned into the gusts and stood transfixed. Nature puts on a pretty good show herself. If things always worked out the way we planned, we wouldn't have seen a lot of the things we've seen.<br />
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July 5, 2013<br />
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The unofficial first day of Seattle summer dawned gray and cold and windy. We carefully made our way back down the climber's trail leading from Peggy's Pond back to the PCT. The weather quickly improved and we were able to stay suited down (no ice axe and microspikes) for the rest of the day. The miles went by quickly for much of the day. We descended to Deep Lake and then skirted around Waptus Lake. It was easy to get lost in my thoughts as I walked through warm green meadows filled with wildflowers. We gradually climbed back up to about 5,700 feet. We had a delicious dinner of tortellini with pesto and snap peas (thanks Karen!) before continuing on our way. The mountains were especially stunning. I look across the valley at ominous looking black summit blocks with flanks of white snow stretched out below. A layer of clouds sat just above the peaks, and with the sun just behind the clouds, it gave the appearance of a halo. The trees in the foreground had been the victim of a forest fire, casting a dark beauty over the scene. We descended again, which wrecked havoc on my feet. We are literally camped on the trail, which is good because I was about to just lie down. 25 miles today.<br />
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July 6, 2013<br />
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The first few miles today were very painful. I have huge blisters underneath the balls of my feet, which makes it feel like my skin is ripping off every step I take. We took a break at Spectacle Lakes and took care of my feet. We ran into snow near Park Lakes. Looking over at Chikamin ridge, there were steep scree slopes covered with snow in areas. We crossed some of them, but the route ahead looking treacherous. We ended up dropping into the Gold Creek Basin, which was a frustrating three hours of descending steep snow, scree, and bushwacking. We finally hooked up with a real trail and walked the last miles out to Snoqualmie Pass. It was a beautiful area of the section to miss, but definitely worth it to take the safer route. We are staying at Hyak tonight, and will spend tomorrow with family and friends. I am so excited to have a day to spend with family and friends!!!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-40296044439878622012013-07-04T14:36:00.002-07:002013-07-04T14:38:16.726-07:00The Geographical, Physical, Mental and Emotional Ups and Downs of the PCTJuly 4, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: June 28, 2013</strong><br />
I am exhausted. It seems like so much happened today that it couldn't have possibly fit into a single day. I woke up today and the sun was out! It was glorious! The moon was also rising (or setting) above the rock band that hugs the little lake we camped next to. The first few hours of the day were spent climbing snow up to Fire Creek Pass. There were two hummingbirds flying around us on the way up, which I believe to be Aunt Cathy saying "hello". This is the second time I've seen hummingbirds in an unlikely snow-covered landscape, the other being on Ruth Icy with Mom last summer. We also saw two fighter jets soaring and doing tricks amongst the mountains. Looks like a fun job. The mountains today are unbelievable, by the way. I'm afraid I might trip over my own feet because I can't stop staring. We are right next to Glacier Peak. We haven't gotten an unobstructed summit shot, she kept shooting off lenticular (halo) clouds. On the other side of the pass, we descended in the snow for awhile, did a few death traverses and scrambled up some steep brush before it became evident that we had miles of snow covered traverses ahead. Also, very important, we got to walk up this incredible narrow snow ridge to the top of the pass. It was scary at times and very exposed but also exhilarating. There was even a little rock scramble/climb near the top. Anyway, instead of miles of death traverses, Ben worked out a route that took us down to the valley and eventually met up with the Kennedy Ridge Trail. Basically this entailed hours of bushwacking up and down very steep terrain. For example, you know you're on a steep slope when you get to your creek crossing and it's a waterfall instead! Eventually we made it back to the trail. I literally felt tempted to hug the tree bearing the PCT sign. At this point it took 12 hours to walk 8 miles. And then another 1.5 hours to do 3.5 - 4 more miles. We hiked until 9:40 and are camped by another creek. Now my feet are dry and my belly is fuller so I'm a happy camper. 44 miles to Stevens Pass.<br />
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<strong>June 29, 2013</strong><br />
Day journaling for once. We are sitting on a ridge waiting for a party of backpackers to bring us some extra food. They even offered to bring it up for us so we could take a break. It is warm and sunny, it feels so good to sit and take in this landscape. <br />
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Glacier Peak is off to my right and the other 360 degrees is filled with countless unknown and beautiful peaks. There are layers of blue and white mountains, sitting below the blue and white cloud filled sky. It is like two worlds sitting on top of each other, or maybe the same world reflected back on itself. I sit here and feel my whole being fill with peace. We left some of BJ in the neighborhood, it is an appropriate place for him to live on. <br />
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Travel continues to be slow going. We were on the trail an hour this morning before hitting snow. It was relatively flat before we began the climb up to Red Pass. We were able to go straight up the snow without difficulty. At the top there was trail for a few glorious feet before we turned a corner to view yet another death traverse. We did one traverse, then opted to go up and over the ridege, which offered breathtaking views.<br />
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As I type, Dwight, Rachel's cat is on my lap....couldn't resist adding the photo!</div>
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<strong>June 30, 2013</strong></div>
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It seems like each day is more exhausting than the last. There is so much snow that any view of the trail is obscured for miles at a time. We walked 14 grueling hours today to go 12 miles. Thank God for the extra food we got yesterday, we have been rationing as is. We just had a PB cup and four gummy worms. It was actually hot today, with hardly a cloud in the sky. It feels so good to be warm. We caught our first glimpse of Rainier today. One of our breaks we sat on a rock outcropping and looked south at the mountains we could identify - Daniel, Stuart, Colchuck, Dragontail, Prusik, Chair, Guye, Snoqualmie - we are headed their way! The trail is testing me, but I feel strong. It feels right to be here.</div>
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<strong>July 1, 2013</strong></div>
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Today has been a whirlwind, another kind of day that seems like two or three. It was another gorgeous blue bird day, which makes it hard to complain about anything else. There was a beautiful red hummingbird flying around camp last night. I woke up to brilliant stars and again early this morning to the first rays of light touching the sky. We walked mostly on snow, and had some Ramen, down climbed some steep willows, lost and found the trail repeatedly, had a PayDay dipped in PB and Nutella, climbed up a steep snow slope only to get cliffed out and find a way down through more steep brush. I think it is a combination of the heat, exhaustion and limiting calories that I feel a little delirious today. I notice at 4 or 5 pm I feel completely drained but I do seem to get a second wind that carries me until dark which is when we've been hiking until. These days if you're looking for the PCT, you will likely find a river. There is a ton of run off with the heat the last few days. These are the moments when things get very frustrating, we have trouble keeping the trail and when we do find it we can't even walk on it without getting soaking wet. And, then this evening we made our way to the top of Grizzly Peak and found ourselves in a meadow of glacier lilies with the most picturesque mountain views surrounding us on all sides and I feel on top of the world. That is the funny thing about this trail - even when you are hot, cold, wet, scared, bleeding, hungry, thirsty, tired or lost, it is still hard to imagine a place I would rather be. It is certainly a lesson in perseverance. We have a little over 10 miles into Stevens Pass and the miles have started moving a bit quicker over the last two or three. It felt good to hike this evening, to watch the sky change color, the sunset casting a rosy glow over the snow slopes. We walked near Heather Lake, one of my childhood favorites with Mom and Beej. It's the first lake we've seen that wasn't snow covered. I get to give Mom a hug tomorrow. I am having a wonderful time and Ben and I have really been working well as a team and making each other laugh, but it is hard to be away from my loved ones.</div>
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The Two Man Wolf Pack Emerges at Stevens Pass - get to hug Mom</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-89899659398637755262013-07-04T13:17:00.000-07:002013-07-04T13:17:25.223-07:00Snowy Bowls and River Crossings...July 4, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: June 25, 2013</strong><br />
Return to the high country today! After a few miles in the woods this am we climbed up Suiattle Pass at 6000'. For some reason it was especially exhausting. The snow was very hard, which made it difficult to get a decent belay in. We reached the top of the Pass, laid down and ate a bunch of chocolate. Things started to improve from here. We walked about three miles down to camp. There were some amazing views of the surrounding peaks, which is the great part of being in the higher country. We even had some patches of blue sky between rain showers. Only 10 miles, but we worked 10 hours for them. We are having bean and rice soup, then hope to get to bed early and get an early start.<br />
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<strong>June 26, 2013</strong><br />
We are camped on Dolly Vista at about 6000'. The day started off low elevation with lush forests reminiscent of an Ewok village. After 5 miles we reached the banks of the Suiattle River. The path of the old PCT was still intact, so we were able to cross on the old log bridge and save ourselves three miles. After another water crossing, we started climbing again. Luckily, the snow was softer and the angle gentler. We got to see some breathtaking views of Glacier Peak and the surrounding Cascades. It started raining again as soon as we set up camp, but it has stopped for now. This would be a great setting for a beautiful sunsent. We just felt a really strange tremor, like an avalanche or an earthquake. We're camped on an island and are safe, but it was just unnerving.<br />
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Last night we woke to an owl hooting near our camp. I love living out here. <br />
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<strong>June 27, 2013</strong><br />
Snuggled up in the quilt after a good dinner, life is peaceful. We got a really late start this morning, it was raining and raining which made it sound like staying in the tent was a much better idea. Several marmots popped their heads out of the their dens to send us off. We climbed up the pass to see another snowy bowl to traverse. We opted to drop down and hike back up. The sun showed up for a bit and warmed our bodies and spirits. From the pass, we dropped down to the valley at Milk Creek. Again, we took the old route to shave a mile off. The bridge has been washed out but we found a safe place to cross with me walking behind Benny and holding onto his pack. The water is powerful, you can see the evidence is severed trees and displaced boulders along the banks. After the river, we climbed back to the snow. Hard, hard snow in the trees. We alternated between snow slopes and scrambling up brush and loose earth covered slopes. We are now above the tree line and camped on the snow near snow covered Mica Lake. It's a colder night than it's been in the last several. We are conserving fuel so it was tortillas with refried beans. Cold food, but we made up for it with cheese, fritos and a Ritter bar for dessert. We both have alarms set and hope to feel more motivated in the am. <br />
P.S. The sunset was exquisite last night, there were at least 20 kinds of clouds, above and below us and the sky was lit up with blues and golds fading to pinks and dusky purples before saying goodnight.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-21590366218657635492013-07-03T22:31:00.002-07:002013-07-03T22:31:58.326-07:00The magical place called StehekinJuly 3, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: June 23, 2013</strong><br />
Today was a wonderful day. We walked 16 miles into Stehekin, all dry trail, not a drop of snow. We walked through lush green valleys filled with wildflowers. There was lupine, paintbrush and avalanche lilies. And, butterflies everywhere. Jen would've loved it. We saw this huge, old growth Cedar that I could not conceive of wrapping my arms around. It is humbling to think of how much has happened in that tree's lifetime. Ben was able to get amazing wildlife shots of a beautiful yellow and red bird, a butterfly drinking the nectar of a lily and a very slow-moving rattlesnake. We were able to get a ride to the bakery from a very gracious couple instead of waiting two hours for the bus. We had pastries and lattes before walking the two miles into town. Stehekin is strange and beautiful, like going back in time. There are exquisite wood homes. We walked past a designated meditation site on the lakeshore with a wood sign that reads: "Be still and know that I am God." The quiet raindrops falling on the lake where the mountains meet the water brought tears to my eyes. We had a couple of beers and dinner and sat on the dock and watched the world be still. This day feels like how the trail should be, like I am connecting to it, it is seeping into me - I feel calm. Ben and I talked a lot about the day - life is good! A good quote from Ben today about why he is glad we are on the trail - "Happiness is only real when shared".<br />
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<strong>June 24, 2013</strong><br />
This morning we left Stehekin with another good stretch of trail in front of us, about 100 miles. We tried to go to the PO first thing in the morning, but they don't open until 10 am. A woman wearing an auspicious blue heron shirt gave us a ride to the bakery. We had egg sandwiches and lattes for breakfast and packed out all kinds of stuffed croissants, cinnamon rolls, cupcakes and danishes for the trip ahead. Life is way too luxurious the last several days. We walked the two miles back to the PO and got our first package, plus a letter from my Mom! We sorted out food, said goodbye to lovely Stehekin and took the bus back to High Bridge TH. We had a peaceful, wooded walk today with intermittent showers. We are surrounded by old growth Cedars and Douglas Firs. We walked through patches of purple trillium, I have never seen more than one at any given spot - they are usually few and far between, usually they are white. We ate ham and swiss and pesto and veggie croissants overlooking a beautiful waterfall. We have been following Agnes Creek all day and are currently camped on her banks. We saw a muddy bear print today and have been hanging our food in these lowland areas. Even though my feet ache and my pack is heavy with food for the stretch ahead, my heart and my steps feel light.<br />
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The Journal Entry for Today</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-66922017841318719862013-07-03T22:01:00.001-07:002013-07-03T22:01:22.374-07:00The First Leg.....Done!July 3, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: June 22, 2013</strong><br />
We got back on the trail this evening about 6 and hiked from Rainey Pass to Fireweed Campground about 4 miles away. It is wonderful to be on dry ground with dry clothes and eat dinner outside of the tent. Mom sent us off with homemade chili for dinner, which was delicious. Yesterday we woke up at Granite Pass and quickly found ourselves in steep snow terrain. Looking at a 60 degree traverse with minimal visibility was daunting so we decided to travel up and over the ridge to Cuttthroat Pass. It was a very exposed 4th/5th Class scramble, which was terrifying at times but also really fun. I miss climbing. We were lucky the route went through, it would have been defeating and scary to climb down the way we went up. We overshot the descent route down Cutthroat by a bit, but Ben was able to get us back on track. Soon we started descending into forest and were able to walk on trail the last few miles to Rainey Pass. We hitched a ride from a very kind Canadian couple who gave us soda, apples and cheese. We got a room in Winthrop and went out for pizza and beer. Jon flew in to deliver a replacement GPS and Jen brought out new shoes and a few other pieces of gear. It was priceless to spend the day with family. I feel very lucky to have the support system we have. <br />
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Packing up at Rainey Pass</div>
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Ben, consulting the map for the next section</div>
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The North Cascades! Where we regained the trail at Rainey Pass</div>
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Setting Out from Rainey Pass</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-52897373839156558642013-07-03T18:18:00.001-07:002013-07-03T18:18:57.468-07:00The First Leg of the Journey ContinuesJuly 3, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: June 19, 2013</strong><br />
Today is ending better than it started. We were exhausted this morning and ended up deciding to sleep in and make it a half day. I woke up on and off listening to rain fall on the tent, which was peacful and also made me want to stay in the tent indefinitely. When we did crawl outside, we discovered it was snowing and we were in a whiteout. There was about a mile of terrain to cover before reaching the road that parallels the trail between Slate Peak and Hart's Pass. After waiting for an hour for visibililty to improve (it didn't) we got on our way. We made it to Hart's Pass and 6 miles beyond for a total of 9 miles today. Not bad considering we didn't start hiking until 1 pm. We had two sections with steep snow traversess that are mentally and physically exhausting. Normally the trail would be nicely carved into the hillside, but, when it's covered in snow you walk very carefully over a 45-55 degree slope at times. Ben says we did "thru-mountaineering". On the bright side, my feet are magically feeling better.<br />
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These are the tiny ones - didn't get a photo of the heel - ouch!</div>
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<strong>June 20, 2013</strong><br />
Day 6 - 18 miles. Another epic. We woke up with six inches of new snow on the tent and more coming down. We were on the move by 7:30. Right off the get go we had to descend more steep snow. We ran into two SoBo (South Bound) hikers - Kate and Lisa who started yesterday from Hart's Pass. Finally we got down to low ground (4000-5000 ') where the trail was clear of snow for 10 glorious miles. Mind you it was still pouring down rain, we are in our rain gear, soaked through and freezing any time we stop moving. It was too miserable to take breaks, we just huddled under some trees and had bites of PB and cheese. Eventually, we had to climb back up to Methow Pass. Luckily, the descent was south facing and relatively snow free except for two short crossings. We did this section with our new hiker buddies. Safety in numbers. We are now camped at Granite Pass, about 6 miles from Rainey Pass, where we will go into town and hopefully have my shoes brought out. I had some really miserable moments today where I wanted to go home, but somehow the trail has turned itself back around for me.<br />
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(I'm taking the liberty of adding this quote: "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." Lao Tzu)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1689837562742847062.post-37608808990385733212013-07-03T17:17:00.000-07:002013-07-07T14:21:23.605-07:00Getting the Trail Down on PaperJuly 3, 2013 (transcribed)<br />
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<strong>From the Journal: June 16, 2013</strong><br />
We are huddled in the tent in the rain. There was dry trail for the first part of the day and then we had to drop into this snow covered bowl approaching Woody Pass. It was a lot of traversing on steep snow slopes, which is mentally and physically exhausting. We stopped for dinner just before the pass and then continued on our way. The trail showed up intermittenly, but much of our travel has been on snow, which definitely slows the pace. Today we made it 15 miles. We stopped just short of another bowl, which we will navigate through tomorrow.<br />
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Highlights of the day: We crossed paths with our first fellow thru-hikers, a couple heading south from Manning Park. The wildflowers are just popping out and it is beautiful to see life arriving in these snow covered landscapes. The glacier lilies are especially beautiful. <br />
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Sometimes it's really defeating like when you're walking off trail, uphill, with thunder and pouring rain. The best and worst moments are transient.<br />
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"In the presence of eternity, mountains are as transcient as the clouds."<br />
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Note from Mom - there will not be as many photos until we set up a system for Rachel to send me the pictures she takes. But, as "luck" would have it I snapped a photo of glacier lilies which were brilliant at the trail head.<br />
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<strong>June 17, 2013</strong><br />
Today was an incredible day! We woke up in a white out and had to make a steep snow descent right off the bat. Luckily, by the time we gained the next ridge line the cloud layer was rising and the sun was starting to come out. We had to descend a snow arm to reach Hopkins Lake basin below us. I took a sweet fall and crashed into a grove of trees, but I wasn't hurt AND I was wearing the GoPro at the time! We did finally get to actually walk on trail for the last 4-5 miles to the border. It was surreal to be at the Northern Terminus. I have seen it in so many pictures and videos it is weird to actually be there. According to the trail register, there is another twosome heading south that flip-flopped from Walker Pass. We missed them somehow. Actually, today is the first day that Ben is the only other person I've seen. So, we are officially heading south!<br />
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We saw a porcupine near the Canadian border. He let us take good video and camera footage, but refused to vacate the trail, so we had to move around one of the few easy parts of the trail.<br />
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We walked until 10 tonight and the sunset was unbelievable! The moon was rising just as we made camp. Today was a long day - 15.5 hours, 19 miles. I think it is definitely a job well done in these conditions. My feet are killing me. I have four blisters that Benny just bandaged for me. We shared a Flexeril and are headed to bed. The plan is 19 miles to Hart's Pass tomorrow.<br />
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<strong>June 18, 2013</strong><br />
"Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional."<br />
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I have been in pain all day, and I've been trying to figure out - am I suffering? The honest answer is probably - at least a little. The bottoms of both of my feet are wrinkled and blistered beyond recognition. It literally feels like my skin is being ripped off everytime I start walking. In spite of that we managed to hike (or hobble in my case) 16 miles - so we are three miles from Hart's Pass. I had to throw the towel in, I think if I had to cross one more steep snow covered traverse I would just catapault myself down the mountain.<br />
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I'm very discouraged today. We did make it past Woody Pass safely, which was a bit of a terrifying experience. 1,100 vertical feet of steep snow, definitely a "no fall" zone. It felt a hell of a lot more like climbing than hiking. Ben made a deal with God that if we got up safely it could rain all day. It rained much of the day but definitely worth it for safe passage. <br />
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Both times we were in that area we heard a raptor calling. And there was a large bird of prey circling over us. It would appear that BJ is watching over us as well. We will be in new territory tomorrow continuing south.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04024418748569804729noreply@blogger.com0